495 News found

The first 9c sports climb in the world freed by Adam Ondra last Sunday at Flatanger in Norway has lost its 'Project Hard' status and now has official name: Silence. Ondra explains why and, indirectly, provides insight about his own climbing.

Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moroni who on 02/09/2017 in Val Noasca (Valle dell’Orco, Italy) pulled off the first repeat of 29 dots, the difficult highball boulder problem freed in 2015 by Austria’s Bernd Zangerl.

One day before the Orcoblocco bouldering meeting in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Andrea Migliano introduces the valley in the Gran Paradiso National Park and in particular the new El Dorado sector with its 120 new boulder problems.

In July the Swiss alpinists Thomas Senf and Martin Reber made the first ascent of Freudenschreck (6a+, 485 m), a new rock climbing up the SW ridge of Schreckhorn (4078 m), Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.

The last stage of the Boulder World Cup 2017 was won on Saturday by Germany’s Jan Hojer and Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret. Britain’s Shauna Coxsey and South Korea’s Jongwon Chon won the overall Bouldering World Cup 2017, while the European Championship was won by Serbia’s Stasa Gejo and Jan Hojer. All...

The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.

The video of Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl who, 489 days after a serious injury, has managed to make the first free ascent of Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland. Graded 8c+, this route is one of the hardest trad climbs in the world.

On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.

The Classics | Boulder continues with the third episode dedicated to Dreamtime at Cresciano in Switzerland. Germany's Jan Hojer and Juliane Wurm take a step back in time and explore this problem established in 2000 by Fred Nicole and hailed as the world's first 8C.

On the North Pillar of Gross Wellhorn (Bernese Oberland, Switzerland) Silvan Schüpbach with the help of various climbing partners established two difficult multi-pitch alpine climbs, Adrenlinchiubi (7c max 7b obligatory, 250m) and Röck u Zöpf (7c max 7b obligatory, 230m).

On the South Face of Sass dai Tamersc Christoph Hainz has reequipped Der Fluch der Kamine (VII-, 390m). According to mountain guide from the South Tyrol this climb 'has the potential to become a classic rock climb' in the Italian Dolomites.

Austrian climber Anna Stöhr has sent two extremely difficult boulder problems on the same day, New Base Line 8B+ and Steppenwolf 8B at Magic Wood, Switzerland.

Interview with Hervé Barmasse, the Italian alpinist and Matterhorn mountain guide who together with Germany’s David Göttler will attempt a new route up the South Face of Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. Should things go according to plan this would be Barmasse’s first 8000er.

On 15 and 16 March 2017 Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi made the first ascent of Produci consuma crepa, a new 900m rock climb with difficulties up to 6c A2, on the NE Face of Cerro Mariposa, Rio Turbio valley, Patagonia. Luca Schiera reports

On the first day of the Ski Mountaineering World Championships 2017 at Alpago - Piancavallo, Italy’s Damiano Lenzi and France’s Laetitia Roux were crowned Individual world champions. Silver went to Kilian Jornet Burgada from Spain and Maude Mathys from Switzerland, while bronze went to Anton Palzer from Germany and Axelle...

Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington have abandoned their attempt at make the first free ascent of Riders on the Storm, the famous big wall up the Central Paine Tower in Patagonia, due to terrible weather.