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How to Big Wall climb by Chris McNamara
04/02/2013 - Climbing
How to Big Wall climb by Chris McNamara
Interview with American climber Chris McNamara, an expert big wall climber and author of the recently published book How To Big Wall Climb.
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
22/01/2013 - Alpinism
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
18/01/2013 - Alpinism
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
15/01/2013 - Alpinism
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.
Valeria, important new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Valeria, important new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites
On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites. The route has been dedicated to Valeria Brunelli.
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
07/12/2012 - Alpinism
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
I Tre Giganti - the Three Giants - the route climbed by Ermanno Salvaterra, Matteo "Will" Bertolotti, Paolo Grisa and Chicca Boselli up the NE Face of Crozzon di Brenta (3118m, Brenta Dolomites. The story by Ermanno Salvaterra.
Ogre North Face, the attempt by Barmasse and Bernasconi
18/09/2012 - Alpinism
Ogre North Face, the attempt by Barmasse and Bernasconi
Hervé Barmasse talks about his failed attempt-project carried out last July together with Daniele Bernasconi up the virgin North Face of Ogre.
Ueli Steck and Everest: the ascent of a great alpinist
04/06/2012 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck and Everest: the ascent of a great alpinist
The report of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who on 18 May 2012 reached the summit of Everest along with Tenji Sherpa. We have published the account in its entirety as this provides insight into the crowds present during this pre-monsoon season, the job of the Sherpa and what it means...
Rwenzori and Margherita Peak, the third highest mountain in Africa
19/04/2012 - Alpinism
Rwenzori and Margherita Peak, the third highest mountain in Africa
David Orlandi introduces the Central Circuit Trail in the Rwenzori mountain range in Uganda and the ascent of Margherita Peak 5109m, the third highest mountain in Africa.
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
From 25 - 27 January 2012 Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent (and first on-sight) of Via Cembridge (550m, 7b+ (6c obligatory) up Cima Margherita, Brenta Dolomites, Italy.
Presolana via Direttissima, first winter ascent by Panseri, Natali and Ceribelli
15/03/2012 - Alpinism
Presolana via Direttissima, first winter ascent by Panseri, Natali and Ceribelli
On 2-3 March 2012 Maurizio Panseri, Daniele Natali and Alessandro Ceribelli carried out the first winter ascent of via Direttissima up the North Face of Presolana, Italy. The report by Maurizio Panseri.
David Lama - interview after the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
07/02/2012 - Interviews
David Lama - interview after the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama after the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, carried out on 20 and 21 January 2012 with Peter Ortner.
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
23/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...
Blow it up on the internet, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
28/12/2011 - Climbing
Blow it up on the internet, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
In November 2011 the American climbers Chris Kalous and Jonathan Thesenga established Blow it up on the internet, a new 200m, 7b+ climb up the North Face of Monte Monaco in Sicily. The trip report by Jonathan Thesenga.
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
09/12/2011 - Alpinism
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
Some climbs seem timeless due to their importance in the history of alpinism. One of these is certainly Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. The story by Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo, Marcello Sanguineti.
San Vito Lo Capo, an introduction to rock climbing in Sicily
02/12/2011 - Climbing
San Vito Lo Capo, an introduction to rock climbing in Sicily
Climbing and travel journal 2. San Vito Lo Capo: its climbing, Sicily, the history and sea as seen through the eyes of Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.

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