237 News found

Fabio Valseschini talks about his recent great winter solo ascent of the Via dei 5 di Valmadrera up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites), as well as his alpinism and his love for the mountains.

American climbers Michael Schaefer and Kate Rutherford have established the Washington Route (VI, 5.10, A1) on Fitz Roy, Patagonia.

Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).

On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world.

Ski mountaineering on the largest glacier in the Italian Alps. Five ski tours described by the Mountain Guide Cain Olsen: Calotta, Ficazza, Pisgana, Pisganino and the legendary Adamello Tour.

In Patagonia Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder have climbed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in rapid alpine style. In the meantime Rolando Garibotti has removed 17 bolts from Cerro Torre placed last year by the team headed by David Lama.

From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.

Between the 2nd and 3rd of September 2010 the Italian climber Simone Pedeferri carried out the first free ascent of "Non sei più della mia banda" (700m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obbl.), the route first ascended by Stefano "Pizza" Pizzagalli, Domenico Soldarini, Stefano Gaffuri and Cesare Romano on the emblematic Precipizio...

On 04/02/2010 Alessandro Beber and Peter Moser carried out the first ascent of La Bella Addormentata (170m, 6+) in Valsugana, Northern Italy

Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.

The Never sleeping Wall, an inspiring crag close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy introduced by Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried.

Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.

Last June Florian Riegler, climbing with Rebecca Finch, climbed "Via della cattedrale" (max 8a+, 21 pitches) on the South Face of the Marmolada in 12 hours. This is probably the first repeat after the first free ascent at the hands of Pietro dal Prà five years ago. But above all,...

On 5 June Giuliano De Marchi, a doctor and strong mountaineer from Belluno, died on Monte Antelao, Dolomites. Michel Barbiero, his companion in Alaska 2007, remembers him.

The sixth Melloblocco 2009, the world's most important bouldering meeting, broke all records from 07 - 10 May 2009. At least 2500-3000 climbers gathered in Val Masino and Val di Mello and more than 6000 people visited the valley for this happening which embodies the joy of bouldering.

Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.