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Eline & Marc Le Menestrel: Chouca and Buoux, yesterday, today and tomorrow
31/03/2020 - Interviews
Eline & Marc Le Menestrel: Chouca and Buoux, yesterday, today and tomorrow
Chouca at Buoux is one of those routes that has marked the history of sport climbing. First ascended in 1985 by Marc Le Menestrel, it was recently repeated by his daughter Eline Le Menestrel. This was an excellent pretext to find out more about this legendary climb and why...
Daniel Woods no slouch on Off the Wagon sit in Val Bavona
11/03/2020 - Climbing
Daniel Woods no slouch on Off the Wagon sit in Val Bavona
American climber Daniel Woods made the third ascent of Off the Wagon sit, the boulder problem freed by Shawn Raboutou in Val Bavona, Switzerland graded 8C + / V16 and repeated in February by Jimmy Webb.
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
07/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
While climbing in Northern Patagonia, Swiss mountaineers Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet . The route has been called Homenaje a los amigos perdidos in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker. Hinterberger reports.
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
25/01/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger crevasse fall on Gasherbrum
20/01/2020 - Alpinism
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger crevasse fall on Gasherbrum
After a terrifying fall into a crevasse, fortunately without serious consequences, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have ended their winter expedition to Gasherbrum I and II in Pakistan.
Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques with Pete Whittaker
12/12/2019 - Book-press
Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques with Pete Whittaker
Interview with British rock climber Pete Whittaker about his new book Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
06/12/2019 - Alpinism
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
04/12/2019 - Interviews
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
Interview with Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher after their free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
27/11/2019 - Climbing
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.
Buster Martin climbs First Ley 9a+ at Margalef in Spain
19/11/2019 - Climbing
Buster Martin climbs First Ley 9a+ at Margalef in Spain
Buster Martin has repeated First Ley 9a+ at Margalef in Spain. In doing so he has become only the second Briton to climb a confirmed 9a+ after Steve McClure.
Orazio Codega, historic president and soul of CAMP, passes away aged 80
19/11/2019 - Alpinism
Orazio Codega, historic president and soul of CAMP, passes away aged 80
Orazio Codega, president and genuine soul of CAMP, has passed away aged 80. Born in 1939, from the Sixties until 2004 he shaped the Italian company into becoming it one of the world leaders in the production of climbing and mountaineering equipment.
Nellie Milfeld climbs Freerider free on El Capitan, Yosemite
17/11/2019 - Climbing
Nellie Milfeld climbs Freerider free on El Capitan, Yosemite
American rock climber Nellie Milfeld, belayed by her husband Cedar Wright, has made a rare female ascent of Freerider up El Capitan in Yosemite
Anak Verhoeven 8b+ onsight, 9a+ redpoint at Oliana in Spain
09/11/2019 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven 8b+ onsight, 9a+ redpoint at Oliana in Spain
At Oliana in Spain Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has onsighted an 8b+, Gorilas en la Niebla, and redpointed a 9a+, Joe Mama, conferming her status as one of the best climbers in the world.
Marek Raganowicz on El Capitan solo climbs Born Under a Bad Sign
08/11/2019 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz on El Capitan solo climbs Born Under a Bad Sign
Polish / British alpinist Marek Raganowicz reports about his 13 day solo ascent of Born Under a Bad Sign, a difficult and dangerous aid climb up El Capitan in Yosemite first ascended in 1979 by Bill Price and Tim Washick.
Uncertain Future scoped on Dolomites Spiz de la Lastia by Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata
16/09/2019 - Alpinism
Uncertain Future scoped on Dolomites Spiz de la Lastia by Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata
On Spiz de le Lastia in the Agner group, Dolomites, Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata have made the first ascent of Futuro Incerto. Diego Toigo reports about the climb, established with one bivouac from 18 to 19 August 2019.
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019
09/09/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019
The solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West carried out by Hansjörg Auer, the solo ascent of Lunag Ri carried out by David Lama and the ascent of Latok 1 completed by Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone and Luka Stražar are the ascents honoured by the Piolet d’Or 2019.The press release of...