Jernej Kruder frees Ellipsis on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea, Italy
Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has made the first free ascent of Ellipsis, a five-pitch climb with difficulties up to 8b+ on Mt. Bila Pec at Sella Nevea in the Julian Alps, Italy.
Two years after establishing Ellipsis on the East Face of Bila Pec, the smooth limestone peak located in the magnificent Sella Nevea basin high up in the Italian part of the Julian Alps, Jernej Kruder has now pulled off the route’s first free ascent.
The 5-pitch outing was first ascended by the 29-year-old with fellow Slovenians Gašper Pintar and David Debeljak ground-up using a mix of wires, cams, pegs and, where necessary, bolts. After three days of hard work the 200m line sported a mere 28 bolts, resulting in a difficult physical and psychological test.
Kruder summoned up the courage to return only last week and, making the most of prime conditions with Urh Primožič, he completed the first redpoint. While the first three pitches check in at 7b+, 7a+ and 8a and ran fairly smoothly, the 8b+ crux pitch and in particular the 7c finale made Kruder dig in deep prior to success.
Links: FB Jernej Kruder, SCARPA, Ocun
View this post on Instagram
Ellipsis, 8b+ (7b+,7a+,8a,8b+,7c) FA Story begins back in 2018 when I teamed up with strong and visionary guys @pinticlimbs and @slod4ve . They saw a nice looking line in a steep 200 meters wall of Bila pec. They didn't know how difficult and challenging it can be, but they were sure it's not going to be save or possible without bolts. They took the alpine gear and I took the bolts and drilling tool for 3 days of work. We spent 26 (+2 additional ones) bolts including anchors and some pitons. Route seemed very challenging and I needed 2 years to find courage to come back. After 3 days of work, I came back with @urhprimozic on very good, dry conditions. First 3 pithes (7b+, 7a+ and 8a) went down pretty easy, but still I wasn't sure about 4th, hardest pitch. I gave it a go and I failed. I failed because on previous tries I was mentally and physically too tired to figure out the moves properly. This time I found perfect beta and sent it second go . I still had time to finish the last 7c pitch on which I was also missing a move. I must say, I fought the most in this one, but got lucky enough I didn't fall. This was my longest big wall project, and I'm very proud I can call it a first ascent . @pinticlimbs @slod4ve @urhprimozic @sonilmose thanks again for this beautiful story!!! : @markgrmek ______________________ @scarpaspa @ocun.climbing @vibram @snowmonkey