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The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
20/12/2012 - Gear
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
A sample of carabiners and quickdraws have been tested and analised by Emanuele Pellizzari at the Italian Mountaineering Club Gear and Techniques laboratory at Taggì di Sopra, Villafranca Padovana, Padova, Italy.
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
20/12/2012 - Interviews
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
Interview with New Zealand rock climber Mayan Smith-Gobat. Her ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles, the Salathé Wall on El Capitan, the Nose Speed and more...
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
19/12/2012 - Alpinism
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
On 8 and 9 December 2012 three new routes were established up the North Face of Piz Spallone Pizzo del Becco (Orobie, Alta Val Brembana, BG); Fò di B.A.L (250m, III - WI 2 - M5), Beccati questa Goulotte (250m, II - WI 2 - M4) and Bo (250m, II...
Interview with Johanna Ernst
11/12/2012 - Interviews
Interview with Johanna Ernst
Interview with Austrian competition athlete Johanna Ernst, certainly one of the most talented sports climbers in the world.
Nacho Sánchez adds 8B+ boulder to Zarzalejo
11/12/2012 - Climbing
Nacho Sánchez adds 8B+ boulder to Zarzalejo
At the bouldering area Zarzalejo in Spain Nacho Sánchez has freed the problem Zarzafar 8B+.
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
07/12/2012 - Alpinism
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
I Tre Giganti - the Three Giants - the route climbed by Ermanno Salvaterra, Matteo "Will" Bertolotti, Paolo Grisa and Chicca Boselli up the NE Face of Crozzon di Brenta (3118m, Brenta Dolomites. The story by Ermanno Salvaterra.
Climbing unlocked at Jailhouse Rock!
04/12/2012 - Climbing
Climbing unlocked at Jailhouse Rock!
After 20 years an agreement has been reached to guarantee access to climb at the cliff Jailhouse Rock in California, USA.
Mont Rouge di Greuvetta, new mixed route Eyes Wide Shut
04/12/2012 - Alpinism
Mont Rouge di Greuvetta, new mixed route Eyes Wide Shut
On 20/11/2012 British alpinists Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey made the first ascent of Eyes Wide Shut (900m, ED1, M6, AO, UIAA IV+) up the NE Face of Mont Rouge di Greuvetta (Mont Blanc massif).
Sean McColl wins the La Sportiva Legends Only boulder competition in Stockholm
03/12/2012 - Competitions
Sean McColl wins the La Sportiva Legends Only boulder competition in Stockholm
The Canadian climber Sean McColl crowned his best competition season yet by winning this unique challenge organised by La Sportiva, beating runner-up Dmitry Sharafutdinov by one attempt.
Climbing in Finland - a short history
28/11/2012 - Climbing
Climbing in Finland - a short history
Tommy Vänskä, co-director of the film Kylmää kiveä, retraces the history of rock climbing in Finland.
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
On 17-18/11/2012 Marco Farina, François Cazzanelli and Roby Ferraris made a fast and great repeat of the route first ascended by Renato Casarotto and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1983 up the South Face of the Matterhorn which exits onto Pic Tyndall (ED / 1300mt ). This is likely to be...
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma win the Lead World Cup 2012
19/11/2012 - Competitions
Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma win the Lead World Cup 2012
19/11/2012. The last stage of the Lead World Cup held last weekend in Kranj, Slovenia, was won by home-athlete Mina Markovic who has now won her second overall World Cup. In the men's event Austria's Jakob Schubert won the Kranj stage while second-placed Sachi Amma from Japan won his first...
Continuing to dream of Patrick Edlinger
19/11/2012 - Climbing
Continuing to dream of Patrick Edlinger
While the grief continues regarding the death Patrick Edlinger, we have published a portrait of this climbing legend that was first published in 2005 in the book Rock Master.

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