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Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
01/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style.
Ulvetanna Peak, new North East Ridge route in Antarctica
28/01/2013 - Alpinism
Ulvetanna Peak, new North East Ridge route in Antarctica
The North East ridge of Ulvetanna Peak (2931m) in the Antarctica has been climbed for the first time by Leo Houlding, Sean Leary, Alastair Lee, Jason Pickles, Chris Rabone and David Reeves.
Climbers against cancer, interview with John Ellison
25/01/2013 - Interviews
Climbers against cancer, interview with John Ellison
Interview with John Ellison, the man behind Climbers against Cancer, the campaign which aims to raise awareness and gather funds for cancer research.
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
22/01/2013 - Alpinism
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey
20/01/2013 - Alpinism
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey
The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
18/01/2013 - Alpinism
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.
Freeride World Tour hits Courmayeur
16/01/2013 - Competitions
Freeride World Tour hits Courmayeur
From 17 - 20 January 2013 the second stage of the Swatch Freeride World Tour by The North Face will take place in Courmayeur, Italy.
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
15/01/2013 - Alpinism
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
A brief analysis of the new grade WI 11, put forward for the first time in February 2012 by Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett after having freed the single pitch ice climb Wolverine at the Helmcken Falls (Canada).
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
09/01/2013 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy...
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
08/01/2013 - Climbing
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and climbing trip back in time up Hellzapoppin', one of the most beautiful climbs in the Mediterranean, first ascended in 1977 by Gianni Battimelli, Fabrizio Antonioli, Paul Bellotti, Giorgio Mallucci and Cristiano Delisi.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 -  part 2
07/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 2
Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
30/12/2012 - Climbing
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
On 10 December 2012 the bolts were removed from the sports climb Eterno Riposo, Eternal Rest, at Ceredo in Italy. On his blog Andrea Tosi, the man who first bolted the climb and now removed the bolts, explains his actions.
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
28/12/2012 - Interviews
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
An analysis of the youth climbing competition scene and interview with European Lead Tina Johnsen Hafsaas. An article by Franz Schiassi.
Gasteinertal, new difficult ice climbs Austria
27/12/2012 - Alpinism
Gasteinertal, new difficult ice climbs Austria
Two new difficult icefalls in Austria's Gasteinertal established by Thomas Bubendorfer, Sepp Inhöger and Hans Zlöbl: Triple A and The usual suspects

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