2105 News found

Urban Golob reports about the winter ascents in Slovenia by climbers such as Andrej Grmovsek, Luka Krajnc, Dejan Koren, Aljaz Anderle, Marko Prezelj and many more.

Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).

On 9-10 February 2011 Neil Kauffman and Josh Wharton established Coda (V 5.11+ AO) on Aguja Desmochada, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia.

On 17/01/2011 Davide Capozzi, Luca Rolli, Roch Malnuit, Laurent Dupré and Lionel Hachemy made the first descent of the SW Couloir on Aiguilles du Brouillard (P.ta Saviotti), Mont Blanc

On 6/01/2011 the Italians Dario De Rossi, Renato Bortolato & C., carried out what is thought to be the first ascent of Il Regalo della Befana (110m II,4), inVal Grande (Santo Stefano di Cadore, Belluno, Dolomites).

On 22 December 2010 the Slovenian alpinists Francek Knez and Silvo Karo were awarded the Order of Merit by Slovenia's President Dr. Danilo Tuerk. This high state decoration was confirmed on the pair for "their achievements in Slovenian mountain climbing and for their contributions to the reputation of Slovenian mountaineering...

At the end of 2010 James Pearson, Mark Synnott, Renan Ozturk and Alex Honnold established a series of new routes in the Ennedi Range in Chad.

Over a four day period in winter 2007 the experienced Swiss ice climbers Markus Stofer and Bernd Rathmayr established "Scharf, mit alles…" in the Gasterntal close to Kandersteg in Switzerland.

On 21 December Giuseppe 'Beppe' Ballico and Marco Milanese climbed "Cascata Per Leo" (270m, IV, WI 5+ XR) a beautiful icefall which rarely comes into condition on the SW Face of Croda Marcora (Sorapiss, Dolomites).

Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.

Rosso 70, the film directed by Francesco Mansutti and Vinicio Stefanello and which retraces the 70 yera mountaineering history f the Scoiattoli mountaineering club in Cortina, has won the Jury's Special Prize during the Bulgaria's X° International Mountain Film Festival in Bansko

In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).

Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.

South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl recounts his Dolomite summer which includes, amongst others, the first ascent of his new route, Fairplay 9+/10- on Piz Boè in the Dolomites.

Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.

Yesterday morning Carletto Alverà Lete passed away at the age of 92. The Italian was the flag bearer of the Gruppo Scoiattoli di Cortina, a mountain guide and ski instructor. He takes with him another piece of the history of alpinism in Cortina and the Valle d'Ampezzo, Dolomites.