Junai Kangri, first ascent in the Karakorum by Spanish expedition
On 22 August a Spanish expedition led by Jonas Cruces carried out the first ascent of Junai Kangri (6017m) in India's Karakorum, via their route "Sin permiso (IV, AD +, 750m).
The expedition comprised of the Spaniards Jonas Cruces, Juan G. Hernandez, Francisco Ferrero, Jose C. Llamas and two Indians, Phurbu Bhutia and Dawa Sherpa, ascended the hitherto unclimbed Junai Kangri, a 6017m peak located in the extreme east of the Indian Karakorum.
The mountaineers ascended the West Face central gully and then continued north along the airy crest to the summit, encountering difficulties estimated at IV, AD +, 750m. The original aim had been to ascend Mamostong Kangri 7561m, but the bergschrund proved unclimbable and thus the team set its sights on nearby Junai Kangri.
The area where the mountain is located borders Pakistan, China and India and Jonas Cruces, who evidently is back on form after his accident 6 months ago on the icefalls at Rjukan in Norway, advises those interested in applying for Visa permits much in advance.
