Junai Kangri, first ascent in the Karakorum by Spanish expedition

On 22 August a Spanish expedition led by Jonas Cruces carried out the first ascent of Junai Kangri (6017m) in India's Karakorum, via their route "Sin permiso (IV, AD +, 750m).
1 / 9
On 22/08/2011 a Spanish expedition led by Jonas Cruces carried out the first ascent of Junai Kangri (6017m) in Karakorum, India via their "Sin permiso" (IV, AD +, 750m).
Planetmountain.com
The expedition comprised of the Spaniards Jonas Cruces, Juan G. Hernandez, Francisco Ferrero, Jose C. Llamas and two Indians, Phurbu Bhutia and Dawa Sherpa, ascended the hitherto unclimbed Junai Kangri, a 6017m peak located in the extreme east of the Indian Karakorum.

The mountaineers ascended the West Face central gully and then continued north along the airy crest to the summit, encountering difficulties estimated at IV, AD +, 750m. The original aim had been to ascend Mamostong Kangri 7561m, but the bergschrund proved unclimbable and thus the team set its sights on nearby Junai Kangri.

The area where the mountain is located borders Pakistan, China and India and Jonas Cruces, who evidently is back on form after his accident 6 months ago on the icefalls at Rjukan in Norway, advises those interested in applying for Visa permits much in advance.




Latest news


Expo / News


Expo / Products
Mammut Barryvox 2 is a compact avalanche transceiver for fast, supported search.
Merino Wool Socks for Ice Climbing and Dry Tooling.
Ferrino OSA 32, a backpack for freeriders and ski mountaineers providing maximum ergonomics and functionality.
Petzl Irvis Hybrid crampons for ski touring and approaches involving glacier travel.
The Zenith is a mountaineering axe that uniquely combines lightweight design with technical features for top-level performance.
Show products