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British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya
British mountaineers Dave Sharpe and John Crook have made the first ascent of Raja Peak via their new ‘Transcendence’ up the mountain’s North Face above the Temasa Valley. In the Miyar valley the duo made the first ascent of ‘Last Chance Saloon’(1300m, Scottish 4, TD-) up James Peak (5780m), while...
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem
24/10/2016 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem
Finnish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of Burden of Dreams, his project at Lappnor in Finland, for which he has now suggested 9A. Should the grade be confirmed, this would be the first boulder problem to breach this difficulty worldwide.
Red Bull Illume 2016 and the beauty of photography
22/10/2016 - Book-press
Red Bull Illume 2016 and the beauty of photography
German photographer Lorenz Holder has won one of the most prestigious photographic competitions in the world for “action & adventure”, namely the Red Bull Illume 2016. All the winning photos.
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview
21/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview
Interview with Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič after their ascents of Broad Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV North Summit (7900m).
Jeo, new rock climb in the Sella Dolomites
20/10/2016 - Climbing
Jeo, new rock climb in the Sella Dolomites
On the East Face of Col de Stagn (Sella group, Dolomites) Andrea Oberbacher and Francesco Tremolada have made the first ascent of 'Jeo' (7a max, 6b+ obligatory, 185m).
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
During his first visit to Yosemite, USA, Czech climber Adam Ondra has immediately begun attempting 'Dawn Wall', the hardest big wall climb in world freed on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson.
The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme
19/10/2016 - Environment
The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme
Nathalie Bini shares her experience in a refugee camp at Vasilika (Thessaloniki, Greece) and appeals to everyone, climber and non climbers, to help make a little magic.
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
Thirty years later. The report by Rolando Larcher who, with his son Alessandro, returned to the climbs Elephant Baby (at San Paolo) and Gravity Games (at Eremo) not only to repeat these historic routes established in 1986 and the first to be graded 8a at Arco, but also to show...
The Millennium Arch climbed in Canyonlands by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker
17/10/2016 - Climbing
The Millennium Arch climbed in Canyonlands by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker
British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have made the first ascent of The Millennium Arch, a circa 100m roof crack at Canyonlands, USA they have now graded 5.14.
Adam Ondra 9b first ascent and 8c+ onsight in Slovakia
13/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra 9b first ascent and 8c+ onsight in Slovakia
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who on 05/10/2016 at Alternativna stena in Slovakia made the first ascent of 'Robin Úd', a 9b sports climb, before on sighting the 8c+ 'C'est la vie'.
Charles Albert downclimbs 8B+ barefoot at Fontainebleau
12/10/2016 - Climbing
Charles Albert downclimbs 8B+ barefoot at Fontainebleau
The video of French climber Charles Albert who, last week at Fontainebleau in France, sent the 8B+ boulder problem ‘Gecko assis’ while barefoot and downclimbing.
High pressure over Mont Blanc
12/10/2016 - Alpinism
High pressure over Mont Blanc
The high-pressure system, an unbridled love for the mountains, a fortnight, one tent and the thirst for a simple and wandering form of alpinism, with all Mont Blanc's summits and thousands of wonders in this alpine playground. This is the story of a mountaineering trip carried out by Giovanni Zaccaria...
Stefano Ghisolfi climbs 9a+ again at Céüse
11/10/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi climbs 9a+ again at Céüse
At Ceuse in France Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated Jungle Boogie, the 9a+ sports climb freed by Adam Ondra in 2012.
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
11/10/2016 - Events
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded to Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański and the inclusion of our...
Kimshung Expedition 2016: François Cazzanelli, Giampaolo Corona & Emrik Favre establish Base Camp
09/10/2016 - Alpinism
Kimshung Expedition 2016: François Cazzanelli, Giampaolo Corona & Emrik Favre establish Base Camp
Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Giampaolo Corona and Emrik Favre are currently in Nepal where they have established base camp at the foot of the Himalayan giants in the Lang Tang Valley. The goal of the expedition is the hitherto unclimbed Kimshung (6781m) or to ascend Langtang Lirung (7221m), first climbed...

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