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Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
18/02/2016 - Alpinism
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
In remembering Henry Worsley, the British explorer who lost his life during his attempt to cross the Antarctic continent, from one coast to the other, solo, unsupported and unassisted, Marcello Rossi discusses the value and importance of exploration by placing it in the current historical and social context.
Melloblocco 2016 and the hormonal bouldering storms
17/02/2016 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2016 and the hormonal bouldering storms
The date is set for the 13th edition Melloblocco. An invitation, bordering between fantasy and history, to join the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place, as ever, in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016.
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
15/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
British alpinist Tom Ballard recounts his plan B on 30/12/2015: his winter solo ascent in a single day (in one morning) of Spigolo Vinci up Pizzo Cengalo (3369m, 400m, TD) and Via Molteni up Pizzo Badile (3308m, 400m, D+) in Val Masino (Italy).
Die Leiden des Jungen Werthers, new Dolomites rock climb up Punta del Pin
12/02/2016 - Alpinism
Die Leiden des Jungen Werthers, new Dolomites rock climb up Punta del Pin
During the summer 2015 Ulrich Viertler and Raffaele Sebastiani made the first ascent of "Die Leiden des Jurgen Werther" (250m, VIII+/IX- , R3, III:EX), a new alpine trad climb up Punta del Pin, Prags Dolomites.
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita voted People's Choice Adventurer of the Year 2016
10/02/2016 - Alpinism
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita voted People's Choice Adventurer of the Year 2016
Nepal's Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita has been nominated National Geographic People’s Choice Adventurer of the Year 2016. Apart from being a highly talented mountainer, Pasang Lhamu distinguished herself for her role in relief efforts after the country suffered a severe earthquake in April 2015.
Angelika Rainer flashes Next Level D13 at Usine in France
09/02/2016 - Alpinism
Angelika Rainer flashes Next Level D13 at Usine in France
Italian ice climber Angelika Rainer has flashed "Next Level", a drytooling route graded D13 located at Usine in France.
Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl breakthrough with Interstellar Spice at Helmcken Falls
08/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl breakthrough with Interstellar Spice at Helmcken Falls
At the Helmcken Falls in Canada Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have made the first ascent of Interstellar Spice, a new ice climb they describe as setting "a new level of difficulty for any route of this style."
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
05/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
British climber Tom Ballard has freed A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World, Dolomites. If the D15 grade is confirmed, this climb weighs in as the hardest drytooling route in the world.
Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior
05/02/2016 - Climbing
Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior
The climbing report by French climber Arnaud Petit who in January 2016, together with Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior, established a host of new sport climbs in the Valley of Giants and Wadi Bani Khalid in Oman, before repeating routes at Hadash and on Jebel Misht.
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
04/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out...
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02/02/2016 - Climbing
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Mexico.
Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov win the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016
01/02/2016 - Competitions
Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov win the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016
The final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016 took place last weekend at Rabenstein - Corvara in Italy. After four competitions, both the Lead and Speed World Cups were won by the Russians Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov. Lead stage victory went ot Janez Svoljšak from Slovenia and...
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
01/02/2016 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad and bolts by M. Oviglia and P. Seimandi and freed...
Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
29/01/2016 - Climbing
Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces trad crack climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy.
Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy
28/01/2016 - Alpinism
Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy
On 26 January 2016 at Bus del Quai di Iseo (Italy) Dutch climber Marianne van der Steen managed to flash Kamasutra, a drytooling climb graded D13+.