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New Zealand: another mixed climb up Aoraki / Mount Cook
11/09/2018 - Alpinism
New Zealand: another mixed climb up Aoraki / Mount Cook
Mountaineers Caleb Jennings and Kim Ladiges have made the first ascent of Pilgrim, a new mixed climb up the south face of Aoraki / Mt Cook (3,764 m) in New Zealand.
Mente Demente new rock climb up Spiz of Lastia in the Italian Dolomites
10/09/2018 - Alpinism
Mente Demente new rock climb up Spiz of Lastia in the Italian Dolomites
Diego Toigo reports about the first ascent of Mente Demente, climbed on 17 August with Francesco Fent and Alberto Maschio up the NW Face of Spiz della Lastia, Agner, Dolomites
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
08/09/2018 - Climbing
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
At Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, French climber Gérome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody E11, while Florence Pinet climbed Requiem E8 6b.
Tom Belz summits Kilimanjaro on route towards personal growth
07/09/2018 - Alpinism
Tom Belz summits Kilimanjaro on route towards personal growth
On 9 August 2018 the disabled mountaineer Tom Belz reached the summit of Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, without a leg and on crutches. An adventure to understand his personal limits but above all to encourage others to push beyone their personal boundaries.
Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview
06/09/2018 - Interviews
Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview
Interview with Slovenian alpinist Aleš Česen after the ascent, carried out with Luka Stražar and Tom Livingstone, of Latok I via the north and south face. The three were only the second team to reach the summit of the 7,145m high mountain in Pakistan’s Karakorum after the 1979 first ascent.
Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours
05/09/2018 - Alpinism
Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours
On Monday 27 August 2018 the 29-year-old Swiss mountain guide Andreas Steindl ascended and descended the Matterhorn via the Hornli ridge at breakneck speed, requiring 3 hours, 59 minutes and 52 seconds for the round-trip from Zermatt.
Blood Moon, Brits climb new route up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
04/09/2018 - Climbing
Blood Moon, Brits climb new route up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
Alan Carne, Calum Cunningham and Robbie Phillips have made the first ascent of Blood Moon (8a+, 700m) up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Atlantide at Baunei, new plaisir rock climb in Sardinia
03/09/2018 - Climbing
Atlantide at Baunei, new plaisir rock climb in Sardinia
Up the Sa Costa ‘e Aidu rock face at Baunei in Sardinia, Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu have made the first ascent of Atlantide, 400 meters of plaisir climbing with difficulties up to 6a+.
Pilots warn drones endanger rescue helicopter safety
02/09/2018 - Alpinism
Pilots warn drones endanger rescue helicopter safety
Marco Kostner, pilot of the Aiut Alpin Dolomites, warns of the dangers rescue helicopters face due to reckless use of drones in the mountains.
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
31/08/2018 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
German rock climber Robert Jasper has returned from his solo expedition to Greenland after having made the first ascent of Stonecircle (7c, 450m) up Molar Spire above the Angmassalik-Tasilaq Fjord.
Monte Rosa Express clocked up by Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli
31/08/2018 - Alpinism
Monte Rosa Express clocked up by Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli
Denis Trento talks about his fast raid in the Monte Rosa massif together with Robert Antonioli across the peaks Lyskamm, Colle del Lys, Punta Dufour and Punta Zumstein.
Brette Harrington and Caro North tame their Crouching Tiger on Chinese Puzzle Wall, Canada
29/08/2018 - Climbing
Brette Harrington and Caro North tame their Crouching Tiger on Chinese Puzzle Wall, Canada
The alpinists Brette Harrington and Caro North, together with Chris Kalman, have made the first ascent of Crouching Tiger, a 500 m big wall with difficulties up to 5.12b+ on the Chinese Puzzle Wall in Canada.
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
29/08/2018 - Alpinism
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
28/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the end of the North Ridge.
Aiguille du Midi cable car closed for maintenance once again
28/08/2018 - Alpinism
Aiguille du Midi cable car closed for maintenance once again
After the closure in June, the second section of the Aiguille du Midi cable car has been closed for an indefinite period due to maintenance works.
Cosmiques Arête rockfall on Mont Blanc
27/08/2018 - Alpinism
Cosmiques Arête rockfall on Mont Blanc
Rockfall took place on 22 August 2018 on the famous Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif. La Chamoniarde is currently strongly advising against climbing the popular Cosmiques Arête ridgeline.