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07.04.2021 by Vittorio Messini in Alpinism

Virger Nordkette winter traverse completed by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer

From 2 -3 March 2021 Matthias Wurzer and Vittorio Messini, two mountain guides from Kals, Austria, completed a winter ascent of the Virger Nordkette (Frosnitzkamm) from Hintereggerkogel to Galtenscharte in one and a half days. Messini reports.

02.04.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Matterhorn Bonatti route repeated by Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti

On 31 March 2021 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti repeated the Bonatti route on the Matterhorn.

02.04.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

T’enflammes pas, new mixed climb on Flammes de Pierre in Mont Blanc massif

Aymeric Clouet, Mathieu Maynadier and Charles Noirot have established T’enflammes pas, a new mixed climb on Flammes de Pierre in the Mont Blanc massif.

31.03.2021 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering

Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon recently returned from an attempt to climb Manaslu in winter. An expedition which ended without the hoped-for success but which, once again, teaches us to 'find more important goals than the summit.'

24.03.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Zahnlos at Seekofel, new mixed climb in the Dolomites

At Seekofel / Croda del Becco above Lake Braies in the Dolomites alpinists Manuel Baumgartner and Daniel Töchterle from the South Tyrol, Italy, completed the first ascent of Zahnlos (200m, WI6/M6).

19.03.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dogma climbed at Rein in Taufers by Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner

On Saturday 30 January 2021 the mountain guides Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner from the South Tyrol, Italy, made the first ascent of a difficult mixed climb at Rein in Taufers called Dogma.

18.03.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

First winter ascent of Expander enchainment in Poland’s Tatra mountains

From 2 - 4 March Polish mountaineers Maciek Ciesielski, Piotr Sułowski and Kacper Tekieli made the first winter ascent of Expander, reputed to be the most famous link-up of four existing routes in the Tatras in Poland.

Mount Nelson first ski descent in Canada by Christina Lustenberger, Ian McIntosh

On 4/03/2021 alpinists and extreme skiers Ian McIntosh and Christina Lusti Lustenberger completed their childhood dream by scoring the first ski descent of Mount Nelson in Canada, skiing the mountain's striking East Face.

09.03.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Legrima on Langkofel, Dolomites, finally repeated by Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth

From 21 to 22 December 2020 Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth from the South Tyrol Italy, completed the first repeat of La Legrima on the northeast face of Langkofel / Sassolungo in the Dolomites. The difficult mixed climb was established in 2013 by Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder.

05.03.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl completes winter solo of Große Mauer on Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites

Yesterday Simon Gietl made a winter solo ascent of Große Mauer / Grande Muro on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass dla Crusc in the Dolomites. The mountaineer the South Tyrol, Italy, returned to valley by paraglider.

04.03.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones

Two huge climbs were repeated on the northwest face of Civetta in the Dolomites, Italy: Chimera Verticale by Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth, and W Mexico Cabrones by Alessandro Baù, Thomas Gianola and Giovanni Zaccaria. This is the first time both routes have been climbed in winter.

Yosemite Half Dome integral ski descent by Zach Milligan, Jason Torlano

American alpinists Jason Torlano and Zach Milligan have skied down Half Dome. This is reputed to be the first integral descent from the summit all the way back down into Yosemite Valley.

02.03.2021 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

About Tamara Lunger and K2 in winter

Tamara Lunger from the South Tyrol, Italy, has recently returned home after attempting to climb K2 in winter. The expedition was an important but also tragic experience, marked by the loss of Sergi Mingote, Atanas Skatov, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Juan Pablo Mohr and John Snorri Sigurjónsson.

01.03.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Corrado Pesce, Will Sim repeat Petit Dru SW Pillar in Mont Blanc massif

Alpinists Corrado Korra Pesce and Will Sim have repeated Voie des Papas / Via Bonatti on the SW Pillar of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif.

27.02.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl makes winter solo ascent of Mittelpfeiler on Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites

On 25/02/2021 South Tyrolean alpinist Simon Gietl completed a solo ascent of Mittelpfeiler / Pilastro di Mezzo on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass dla Crusc in the Dolomites, via the Mariacher variation.

Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera

On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.

25.02.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Steve House live online / Nanga Parbat Rupal Face ascent with Vince Anderson

Tonight at 19:00 CET American alpinist Steve House will talk about the ascent of the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat, carried out with Vince Anderson over a period of eight days in alpine style in 2005.

24.02.2021 by Simon Messner in Alpinism

Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital

In Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria, Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have established Eremit, a difficult mixed climb protected with trad gear and pegs. Messner reports.

20.02.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Drus West Face: new route climbed live by Gmhm

French mountaineers Thomas Auvaro, Léo Billon, Jordi Noguere and Sébastien Ratel belonging to the Chamonix High Mountain Military Group are currently establishing a new route up the West Face of the Drus in the Mont Blanc massif. The climb is being broadcast in live streaming.

19.02.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nubra Valley Ice Climbing Festival in India

The report about the first Ice Climbing Meeting that took place in January in the wonderful Nubra Valley, India. This event proved to be important, above all because it’s the first of its kind in the Ladakh region. The report by Ladakh Nomad Expeditions.




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