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22.11.2018 by Jesús Ibarz in Alpinism

Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas

At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).

16.11.2018 by Maurizio Giordani in Alpinism

Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani

Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron, Nancy Paoletto, Giorgio Zeni, Luisa Boscheri, Andrea Marchel and Nadia Pezzi.

15.11.2018 by Anna Torretta in Alpinism

Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord

The report by Italian mountaineer Anna Torretta who with Cecilia Buil from Spain and Ixchel Foord from Mexico made the first ascent of Couloir SW (600m, A1, 6a, M5), a new climb up the virgin Mugu Peaks (5467 meters) in the Karnali district of NW Nepal.

14.11.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simone Moro, Tamara Lunger and the first winter ascent of Pik Pobeda in Siberia

The short film of the first winter ascent of Pik Pobeda, carried out by Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger. The highest mountain in Siberia is known as one of coldest places on earth.

12.11.2018 by Vittorio Messini in Alpinism

Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini forge new mixed climb up Mt Prijakt in Austria

Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini have made the first ascent of Sintflut, Deluge, a new ice and mixed climb up the north face of Mount Prijakt in Austria. Messini reports.

07.11.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan

In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m, A3, M7, 6a).

03.11.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Hansjörg Auer: Indian 6000er ascent video

The video of mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher and their ascent of a previously unclimbed 6050m peak in the Indian Himalaya.

31.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Liv Sansoz / Beyond climbing the 82 4000m peaks in the Alps

Interview with French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz after having completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.

29.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

David Lama climbs Lunag Ri in Himalaya solo

David Lama has made a solo ascent of Lunag Ri, the 6907m high mountain on border between Nepal and Tibet attempted twice before by the Austrian alpinist.

27.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dani Arnold climbing Helmcken Falls Power Shrimps

The video of Dani Arnold climbing Power Shrimps, the ice climb he freed in February 2018 ay Helmcken Falls in Canada.

26.10.2018 by Wout Martens in Alpinism

Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range

In the Djangart Range in Kyrgyzstan, last summer a Dutch mountaineering expedition comprised of Noël Diepens, Line van den Berg, Wout Martens, Rik van Odenhoven, Mats Wentholt, Jorian Bakker, Court Haegens and Boris Textor carried out a series of notable new climbs.

25.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Pumori Southeast Face climbed via new Romanian route

Romanian mountaineers Romeo Popa, Zsolt Torok and Teofil Vlad have established a new route up the Southeast Face of Pumori 7161m, Himalaya.

23.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Ortles NE Face, possible new mixed climb by Durogati, Ladurner, Lemayr

On the NE Face of Ortles, the highest mountain in the South Tyrol, Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Aaron Durogati climbed what might well be a big new mixed climb.

22.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger

Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger have made the first ascent of The Power of Love, a new climb up the SE Face of Großglockner, the highest mountain in Austria.

17.10.2018 by Ezio Marlier in Alpinism

Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports

Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide Armando Chanoine, first reached the accident site.

16.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Ben Dare makes solo first ascent of new mixed climb up Mt Percy Smith, New Zealand

On 7 October 2018 Ben Dare made a solo first ascent of ‘The Promise’, a new mixed climb up the 700m high SW Face of Mt Percy Smith, New Zealand.

12.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Events

Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos

Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.

07.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Virgin Himalayan 6000er climbed by Austrian dream team

Alpinists Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher from Austria have made a three-day alpine style ascent of a previously unclimbed 6050m peak in the Kinnaur district in the Indian Himalaya.

06.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison

The Americans Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison have carried out the first integral ski descent of Lhotse (8516m) in the Himalaya, skiing directly off the summit down to Camp 2 at 6400 meters.

04.10.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem

In the Mont Blanc massif the Spanish mountaineers Roger Cararach Soler, Marc Toralles and Bru Busom repeated the Japanese Couloir, the so-called 'Couloir central' that splits the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. The three repeated the climb in 24 hours, without bivouacs, and at the start of the season.

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