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23.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tamara Lunger continues K2 winter expedition

South Tyrolean mountaineer Tamara Lunger has announced she will continue her attempt to climb K2 in winter.

20.01.2021 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Farewell to Cesare Maestri

Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.

19.01.2021 by Simon Chatelan in Alpinism

Narsil added to Kandersteg's Breitwangflue by Simon Chatelan, Nicolas Jaquet

On the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet have established the mixed climb Narsil (M10 WI5+). Chatelan reports.

18.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nirmal Purja climbed K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen

Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja has reported that he climbed K2 in winter without the use of supplementary oxygen.

18.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tamara Lunger remembers Sergi Mingote

The thoughts of Tamara Lunger, published yesterday on Facebook, in memory of Sergi Mingote, the Catalan mountaineer who lost his life on Saturday 16 January 2021 while descending from Camp 1 on K2. The South Tyrolean mountaineer is currently attempting the second highest mountain in the world and, in addition to climbing with the Catalan, together with other climbers she attempted to rescue him and stayed with him after his tragic fall.

18.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Sorejina at Sennesspitze in the Dolomites climbed by Manuel and Simon Gietl

South Tyrolean alpinists Simon and Manuel Gietl have added a new mixed climb to Sennesspitze (Muntejela de Sénes) in the Dolomites by establishing Sorejina (WI5+, M6, 50°, 700m).

17.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2, all 10 summiters of historic first winter ascent safely back in base camp

All ten Nepalese mountaineers who climbed K2 for the first time in winter yesterday have returned safely to base camp. The news was announced by expedition leader Chhang Dawa Sherpa.

16.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Sergi Mingote perishes on K2

Spanish mountaineer Sergi Mingote died earlier today while descending from K2. The Catalan mountaineer was descending from Camp 1 to Advanced Base Camp when he fell to his death.

16.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent

Today, Saturday 16 January 2021 at 16:58 local time, a team of 10 Nepalese mountaineers completed the highly coveted first winter ascent of K2, the second highest mountain in the world and the last 8000er to be climbed in the coldest season. News of the successful summit was provided by Chhang Dawa Sherpa from K2 Base Camp. The climbers who summited are: Nirmal Purja, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Pem Chiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Mingma G, Dawa Tenjin Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa and Sona Sherpa.

15.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest

The attempt to climb K2 in winter is entering the decisive moments, with Camp 4 installed at 7800 meters by the various Sherpa teams led by Nirmal Purja, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks.

14.01.2021 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Etienne Bernard, goodbye to the young alpinist from Val di Fassa, Dolomites

Etienne Bernard, the 27-year-old ski instructor, mountain guide and mountaineer from Val di Fassa, perished in an avalanche yesterday on Mount Pordoi (Dolomites, Italy).

14.01.2021 by Stefan Nestler in Alpinism

K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?

German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.

12.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Video: Dave Macleod winter climbing in Scotland

The video of Dave Macleod making the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, followed by two other first winter ascents in the Glen Coe area of Scotland.

12.01.2021 by Pemba Sharwa Sherpa in Alpinism

Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team

The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting insight into the life of the young Sherpa.

11.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2

The storms that hit K2 last week have wrecked Camp 2, destroying all equipment belonging to the expedition led by Nirmal Purja. The 37-year-old Nepalese mountaineer has already stated he will not give up and simply postpone his attempt to climb the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed before in winter.

09.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks

The video of the Swiss expedition comprised of Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist to Patagonia in November 2019. The alpinists made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet via Homenaje a los amigos perdidos, named in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker.

08.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl

On 20 and 21 December 2020 German alpinists David Bruder and Martin Feistl made the first ascent of Stalingrad, a 1000m route between Grubenkarspitze (2663m) and Plattenspitze (2492m) in the Karwendel massif in Austria.

02.01.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher

Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.

31.12.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude

K2 winter update: diverse teams of mountaineers are attempting the first winter ascent of K2, the only 8000er never climbed before in the coldest season. The Nepalese teams led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa joined forces at altitude and have fixed ropes almost to Camp 3.

30.12.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath

Climbing with Hamish Frost and Graham McGrath, Greg Boswell has established False Penance, another bold new winter climb to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe in Scotland.




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