The news

264
News in archive
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
23/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...
Exploring The Alps final stage, new route on Monte Rosa by Barmasse father and son
09/10/2011 - Alpinism
Exploring The Alps final stage, new route on Monte Rosa by Barmasse father and son
On 30 September Hervé and Marco Barmasse established a new 800m line up the SE Face of Monte Rosa. This third stage marks the end of Hervé Barmasse's project entitled Exploring The Alps.
Walter Bonatti, goodbye
14/09/2011 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti, goodbye
Last night Walter Bonatti passed away. He was 81 years old and one of the greatest legends of alpinism of all times.
Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou and the new Brouillard route up Mont Blanc
06/08/2011 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou and the new Brouillard route up Mont Blanc
Interview with Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou after La Classica Moderna' the new route the trio esablished up the Left Pillar of Brouillard on Mont Blanc.
No way down. The book by Graham Bowley about the 2008 tragedy on K2
01/07/2011 - Book-press
No way down. The book by Graham Bowley about the 2008 tragedy on K2
No Way Down: Life and Death on K2 by Graham Bowley has now been published in Italy by Mondadori. The book retraces the 2008 tragedy on K2 which cost the lives of 11 alpinists and only Italian mountaineer Marco Confortola survived.
Melloblocco 2011 and the great bouldering tribe
09/05/2011 - Events
Melloblocco 2011 and the great bouldering tribe
Melloblocco, Val di Mello, the bouldering tribe and the biggest bouldering meeting in the world
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
29/04/2011 - Alpinism
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
On Thursday 28 April Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Erhard Loretan died in a climbing accident while ascending Grünhorn in the Bernse Alps. Loretan was one of the greatest alpinists of the modern era, the third person to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks and the second to do so...
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
19/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
Two Piolets d'Or were awarded on 15 April in Chamonix, France, during the IXX Piolet d'Or 2011: to the Greenland Big Walls by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Bob Shepton and to the ascent up Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama from...
Fabio Valseschini, interview after the first winter solo on Civetta
28/02/2011 - Interviews
Fabio Valseschini, interview after the first winter solo on Civetta
Fabio Valseschini talks about his recent great winter solo ascent of the Via dei 5 di Valmadrera up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites), as well as his alpinism and his love for the mountains.
Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
02/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
At 11:28 local time Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards reached the summit of Gasherbrum II. This is the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world, a historic climb which is also the first winter ascent of one of the five 8000ers located in Pakistan.
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
28/01/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world.
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
24/11/2010 - Alpinism
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
Yesterday morning Carletto Alverà Lete passed away at the age of 92. The Italian was the flag bearer of the Gruppo Scoiattoli di Cortina, a mountain guide and ski instructor. He takes with him another piece of the history of alpinism in Cortina and the Valle d'Ampezzo, Dolomites.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
European Championship 2010, the results
21/09/2010 - Competitions
European Championship 2010, the results
The sport climbing European Championships were held in Austria's Imst-Innsbruck last weekend. Ramón Julian Puigblanque and Angela Eiter won the Lead competition, Cedric Lachat and Anna Stöhr the Bouldering event, while Sergey Abdrakhmanov and Edyta Ropek won Speed.
Christian Stangl confesses: his K2 summit fruit of the imagination
08/09/2010 - Alpinism
Christian Stangl confesses: his K2 summit fruit of the imagination
Christian Stangl, the Austrian alpinist who had claimed the only K2 ascent in this pre-monsoon season, admitted yesterday to not having reached the summit, as had been contested by a part of the mountaineering community.
Miss Oh Eun-Sun, doubts and certainties surrounding her 14x8000ers
01/09/2010 - Alpinism
Miss Oh Eun-Sun, doubts and certainties surrounding her 14x8000ers
A commission called upon by the Korean Alpine Federation has declared Miss Oh Eun-Sun's Kangchenjunga ascent as improbable, thus raising doubts as to whether the Korean was the first woman to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks.

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