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Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane and Mauro Corona.
Marmolada South Face climbing ban extended until 22 July 2016
15/07/2016 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face climbing ban extended until 22 July 2016
On 14/07/2016 the Italian municipality of Rocca Pietore (Bl) issued Ordinance 31 extending the climbing ban on the South Face of the Marmolada from 16 - 22 July 2016 due to works being carried out on the cable car station. The ban includes the face perpendicular to the top station...
Baffin Island, new climbs and fresh information from the Italian-Belgian expedition
12/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, new climbs and fresh information from the Italian-Belgian expedition
Updates directly from the Italian-Belgian team comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo, Luca Schiera, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva currently climbing on Baffin Island. After having established a new big wall up Great Sail Peak (1,615m), the expedition has added a further two new routes to the Stewart...
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
09/07/2016 - Alpinism
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Voie Petit, the 450m 8b multi-pitch climb on Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc first ascended in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and freed in 2005 by Alexander Huber.
Baffin Island, new big wall by Belgian-Italian team in Stewart Valley
05/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, new big wall by Belgian-Italian team in Stewart Valley
An international expedition of alpinists comprised of Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera currently operating on Baffin Island have established a new, near 1000m route up Great Sail Peak, Stewart Valley.
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham have just made the first ascent of the beautiful NW Ridge of Gangstang (6162m) in the Himachal Pradesh Himalaya. They reached the summit on the 9th June and descended to base camp the next day completing a five day round trip.
#Norwegianstyle, new trad climb on Norway's Preikestolen
30/06/2016 - Climbing
#Norwegianstyle, new trad climb on Norway's Preikestolen
On 13/06/2016 Jon Egil Auestad and Øyvind Salvesen made the first ascent of #Norwegianstyle, a new trad climb up Preikestolen (Pulpit rock) in Norway.
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
28/06/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have climbed Golden Shower (8b+, 150m), the multi-pitch route freed by Stefan Glowacz in 2012 in Verdon Gorge, France. Their ascent took place shortly after that of the Austrians Tobias Bitschnau and Christoph Schranz.
Alex Honnold climbing at The Needles
23/06/2016 - Climbing
Alex Honnold climbing at The Needles
American rock climber Alex Honnold solo climbing at The Needles in California, USA. The VR footage offers a 360° view and gives the sensation of actually being there.
Kishtwar Shivling East Pillar first climbed by Italian team
22/06/2016 - Alpinism
Kishtwar Shivling East Pillar first climbed by Italian team
Alpinism: from 8 - 9 June 2016 the Italian alpinists Nicola Binelli, Luca Cornella, Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini climbed the virgin East Pillar of Kishtwar Shivling in the Indian Himalaya.
Italian Lead Cup, Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta win at L'Aquila
21/06/2016 - Competitions
Italian Lead Cup, Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta win at L'Aquila
On Sunday, June 19 the third stage of the Italian Lead Cup was won o Villa San Angelo, L'Aquila, by Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta.
Leonardo Comelli perishes on Laila Peak in Pakistan
10/06/2016 - Alpinism
Leonardo Comelli perishes on Laila Peak in Pakistan
On 9 June 2016, the 27-year-old Italian alpinist Leonardo Comelli died while attempting the first ski descent of Laila Peak (Karakorum, Pakistan). The other expedition members Carlo Cosi, Zeno Cecon and Enrico Mosetti, are unhurt.
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the greatness of friendship and life. The review by Vinicio Stefanello.