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Okuzini, new sport climbs in Turkey by Sergey Shaferov
03/04/2012 - Climbing
Okuzini, new sport climbs in Turkey by Sergey Shaferov
In March 2012 Belarus climber Sergei Shaferov established a series of sport climbs at Okuzini in Turkey, the most difficult being All inclusive 8c/c+.
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
From 25 - 27 January 2012 Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent (and first on-sight) of Via Cembridge (550m, 7b+ (6c obligatory) up Cima Margherita, Brenta Dolomites, Italy.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the winter traverse by Gietl and Schäli
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the winter traverse by Gietl and Schäli
From 15 - 16 March 2012 Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli carried out the first winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. The report by Simon Gietl.
Gasherbrum I, historic Polish first winter ascent and drama for Göschl, Hussain and Hahlen
12/03/2012 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I, historic Polish first winter ascent and drama for Göschl, Hussain and Hahlen
At 08:30 local time on 09/03/2012 the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (Karakorum, Pakistan) was reached for the first time in winter by the Polish mountaineers Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab. On the same day the alpinists Gerfried Göschl, Nisar Hussain and Cedric Hahlen were seen for the last time on...
Kalymnos new climbs at the E.T. Cave by Neil Gresham
29/02/2012 - Climbing
Kalymnos new climbs at the E.T. Cave by Neil Gresham
British climber Neil Gresham has established a series of difficult new routes at the E.T. Cave on Kalymnos, Greece.
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping
20/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping
The petition, promoted by Rolando Garibotti, concerning the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia by the Americans Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.
Climbing at Alta Val Aupa
15/02/2012 - Climbing
Climbing at Alta Val Aupa
The crag Alta Val Aupa, 21 routes from 6c - 8a+ close to Tolmezzo (Udine) in NE Italy, introduced by local climber Andrea Polo.
David Lama - interview after the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
07/02/2012 - Interviews
David Lama - interview after the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama after the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, carried out on 20 and 21 January 2012 with Peter Ortner.
Michele Caminati and his boulder problem Ultimo dei Moicani at Amiata
23/01/2012 - Climbing
Michele Caminati and his boulder problem Ultimo dei Moicani at Amiata
Michele Caminati talks about the first ascent of his latest creation, Ultimo dei Moicani 8B+ freed on 19 January at Amiata in Tuscany.
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
News from Nanga Parbat: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko continue to explore their hopes and the mountain itself. Yesterday they ventured to beyond 5800m to reach the base of the couloir which they will attempt to climb via their (new) route to the summit.
Alex Honnold, interview after Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks
19/01/2012 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, interview after Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks
A short interview with Alex Honnold after his first ascent of the boulder Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks, Bishop, USA.
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
13/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
On 12/01/2012 Simone Moro and Denis Urubko acclimatised at 5400m on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. Their attempt at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat will be via the line attempted by Messner and Eisendle in 2000, and not via the Kinshofer route.
Immense solitude, the climbing poem by Pessoa
13/01/2012 - Climbing
Immense solitude, the climbing poem by Pessoa
A video which combines the poem by Fernando Pessoa with climbing, interpreted by Lavarda for the Red Bull project Poets in Action.
Adam Ondra, the routes I cannot climb!
12/01/2012 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, the routes I cannot climb!
Czech climber Adam Ondra talks to Planetmountain about the sport climbs he has failed to climb. Hubble, Three Degrees of Separation, Underground and many more.
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
11/01/2012 - Climbing
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
Severino "Seve" Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis have freed an old route at the crag Coup di Rore in Val Varaita (Piemonte, Italy). Established with the use of aid during the 1970's, the route breaches the large roof and remained a project until autumn 2011. A story of past and...

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