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Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training
26/04/2016 - Climbing
Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training
Video interview with British rock climber Jerry Moffatt, one of the driving forces in sports climbing and bouldering during the 1980's and 1990’s. The interview also features early footage of Moffatt training together with Ben Moon in their Sheffield cellar.
Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016
24/04/2016 - Competitions
Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016
British climber Shauna Coxsey and Russia’s Rustam Gelmanov have won the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2016, held yesterday and today at Kazo in Japan. Italy’s Michael Piccolruaz places a sensational second.
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
23/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the reconnaissance phase is longer than expected.
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
19/04/2016 - Events
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti, the historical organisers of Melloblocco, talk about the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016. Over 1300 climbers are set to take part in the 13th...
Utah sandstone rock climbing possibly at risk
15/04/2016 - Climbing
Utah sandstone rock climbing possibly at risk
Climbing in areas such as Indian Creek, Castle Valley, Fisher Towers, San Rafael Swell, Valley of the Gods, Texas and Arch Canyons, Lockhart Basin and Comb Ridge may be at risk. The American Access Fund is appealing to climbers to help protect these areas.
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
15/04/2016 - Book-press
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young sport.
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France
11/04/2016 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France
Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has made the first ascent of 'Ma belle ma muse', an 8c+ sports climb at Romeyer in France.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard
06/04/2016 - Alpinism
Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard
On 17 March 2016 the alpinists Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard have made the first ascent of Aller Simple pour Mars, a difficult new mixed climb up the Pic de l’Aurore face at Percé, Canada graded M7+ WI7- 190m.
Sardinia climbing news: all the routes on Monte Oddeu, Dorgali
04/04/2016 - Climbing
Sardinia climbing news: all the routes on Monte Oddeu, Dorgali
Using a new route on Sardinia’s Monte Oddeu as a pretext, Maurizio Oviglia introduces all the climbs up this mountains beautiful East Face, including the new "L’imbrago… bello stretto" established by Marco Marceddu and Daniele Turco in honor of Oskar Piazza.
Niccolò Ceria bouldering at Pietra del Toro in Basilicata
04/04/2016 - Climbing
Niccolò Ceria bouldering at Pietra del Toro in Basilicata
In late February Niccolò Ceria climbed at Pietra del Toro, a relatively unknown bouldering area in Southern Italy’s Basilicata region where he established a flurry of new problems, including the beautiful 8A+ ""Geometrie non Euclidee".
Lino D'Angelo farewell
30/03/2016 - Alpinism
Lino D'Angelo farewell
Lino D’Angelo, the man and mountaineer who came to represent Gran Sasso and Pietracamela, died in L'Aquila at the age of 95. An important piece of the history of mountaineering. The obituary by Roberto Iannilli.
Sport climbing at Leonidio, new multi-pitch climb in Greece
29/03/2016 - Climbing
Sport climbing at Leonidio, new multi-pitch climb in Greece
On the East Face of Garden of Dionysus above Leonidio in Greece the Italian climbers Dimitri Anghileri, Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera have opened Fuori di Zucca, a new 155m multi-pitch sports climb graded 7c+/8a (7b obligatory). The report by Dimitri Anghileri.
El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri
23/03/2016 - Climbing
El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri
In November 2015 Simone Pedeferri, Paolo Marazzi and Marco Maggioni made the first ascent of El Chaman Loco up the El Chaman face at El Salto, Mexico. Some pitches along this 400m climb still need to be freed, with difficulties estimated at 8c. The trip report by Paolo Marazzi.
Ron Fawcett - The Fingertip Phenomenon
19/03/2016 - Climbing
Ron Fawcett - The Fingertip Phenomenon
The classic 1984 climbing documentary by Sid Perou about Ron Fawcett, one of the outstanding rock climbers of the 1970s and early 1980s.

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