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Colonne d'Ercole, new climb up Punta Tissi in Civetta by Baù, Beber and Tondini
12/09/2012 - Alpinism
Colonne d'Ercole, new climb up Punta Tissi in Civetta by Baù, Beber and Tondini
On 7 - 8 September 2012 Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini made the first free ascent of Colonne d'Ercole (1200m, max IX, obl. VIII+) up Punta Tissi on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites, the great new route they established between 2009 and 2012.
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
06/09/2012 - Interviews
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
Maurizio Oviglia interviews Dogan Palut, one of the most talented and famous climbers in Turkey.
Rock Master Lead: Eiter and Puigblanque top the Semifinal
01/09/2012 - Competitions
Rock Master Lead: Eiter and Puigblanque top the Semifinal
Angela Eiter and Ramon Julien Puigblanque qualify for the Rock Master Lead with today's only two tops. All the best qualify for the Lead final including Adam Ondra (2°), Jakob Schubert (3°), Jorg Verhoeven (4à). Italian hopes high for Jenny Lavarda (3a) and Silvio Reffo (7°).
Sasha DiGiulian and Anna Stöhr win Arco Rock Legends 2012
01/09/2012 - Events
Sasha DiGiulian and Anna Stöhr win Arco Rock Legends 2012
On Friday 31/08/2012 during the VII edition of the Arco Rock Legends Sasha DiGiulian won the Salewa Rock Award, while Anna Stöhr received the La Sportiva Competition Award. Stefan Glowacz was awarded with the Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil prize.
Pilastro Parmenide, new route up Cima dell'Auta
29/08/2012 - Alpinism
Pilastro Parmenide, new route up Cima dell'Auta
On 1 -2/08/2012 Italian climbers Giorgio Travaglia and Stefano Valsecchi made the first ascent of Pilastro Parmenide (500m VI + A3+ + 100m of grade II) up the South Face of Cima dell'Auta orientale (Marmolada, Dolomites). The route was started by Travaglia and others in 2010.
Rustam Gelmanov and Anna Stöhr win Bouldering World Cup 2012
27/08/2012 - Competitions
Rustam Gelmanov and Anna Stöhr win Bouldering World Cup 2012
Rustam Gelmanov from Russia and Anna Stöhr from Austria win the Bouldering World Cup 2012, Sean McColl and Akiyo Noguchi take silver, Jakob Schubert and Shauna Coxsey bronze. The final stage, which took place in Munich yesterday, was won by Akiyo Noguchi and Dmitrii Sharafutdinov.
Rock Junior, the climbing game and great sport
26/08/2012 - Competitions
Rock Junior, the climbing game and great sport
The second, decisive day of Rock Junior witnessed great performances in the Under 14 Cup, the verve of young climbers playing in Kid’s Rock and the legendary parent and children Family Rock relay race. A true festival for the 500 young climbers (aged 5 – 13) and the best way...
Fitz Roy new route attempt by Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann
24/08/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy new route attempt by Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann
Swiss climbers Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann have failed in their attempt to forge a new route up Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Bodet and Petit at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
24/08/2012 - Climbing
Bodet and Petit at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
At the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Italian Dolomites the French climbers Stephanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit have repeated Alpenliebe and Camillotto Pellesier. Bodet shares her thoughts about these two climbs.
Hansjörg Auer discovers direct finish to Goldrausch
21/08/2012 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer discovers direct finish to Goldrausch
Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer has added a direct finish to Goldrausch, Roßkopf, Rofangebirge, Austria
First 8c for Barbara and Sabine Bacher
01/08/2012 - Climbing
First 8c for Barbara and Sabine Bacher
Barbara and Sabine Bacher have redpointed their first 8c, Schwarzer Schwan at the crag Armelenwand, Ötztal, Austria.
Trango Tower, Eternal Flame for Lama, Ortner and Rich
31/07/2012 - Alpinism
Trango Tower, Eternal Flame for Lama, Ortner and Rich
On 30 July at 16:00 David Lama, Peter Ortner and Corey Rich reached the summit of Trango Tower in the Karakorum via the route Eternal Flame.
Nalle Hukkataival repeats Oliphants Dawn at Rocklands
31/07/2012 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival repeats Oliphants Dawn at Rocklands
On 28/07/2012 Nalle Hukkataival made the first repeat of Oliphants Dawn, the 8B+ boulder problem established by Fred Nicole in 2000 at Rocklands, South Africa.
Arco Rock Legends, the 2012 nominations
27/07/2012 - Events
Arco Rock Legends, the 2012 nominations
The nominations for the VII edition of the Arco Rock Legends, the sport climbing Oscars which will take place on 31 July 2012 during the Rock Master Festival 2012 and award the prestigious Salewa Rock Award and La Sportiva Competition Award. Those nominated for the Salewa Rock Award are: Sasha...
Pizzo Badile, first solo of Memento Mori by Rossano Libera
24/07/2012 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile, first solo of Memento Mori by Rossano Libera
On 17 and 18 July Italian alpinist and mountain guide Rossano Libera made the first solo ascent and second repeat of the Direttissima Memento Mori route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile. A route and ascent which many define as the "most hair-raising" on the entire face.
Mont Blanc and the avalanche Mont Maudit
17/07/2012 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc and the avalanche Mont Maudit
With regards to last Thursday's tragedy which claimed the lives of 9 climbers on Mont Maudit, we have received the thoughts of Dr. Luigi Festi, director of the International Masters Course in Mountain Medicine at the University of Insubria and Medical Commission President of the Lombardy branch of the...

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