149 News found

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Il Grande Salto, the discovery of Valle Inferno in Italy's Maiella
14/01/2014 - Alpinism
Il Grande Salto, the discovery of Valle Inferno in Italy's Maiella
On 7 December 2013 Cristiano Iurisci, Massimo Zulli and Antonio Di Martino made the first ascent of Il Grande Salto (TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+) in the remote, inhospitable, isolated and wild Valle Inferno in Italy's Majella National Park. The story by Cristiano Iurisci of what is likely to be the...
David Lama solos new climb on Hohe Kirche in Valsertal
12/12/2013 - Alpinism
David Lama solos new climb on Hohe Kirche in Valsertal
On 8/12/2013 Austrian alpinist David Lama made the first ascent, solo, of Nordverschneidung (400m, 90°, WI4, M4/5, VI/VII) up the North Face of Hohe Kirche in the Valsertal, Zillertal Alps, Austria.
Ghost Dog on Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites by Corrado Pesce and Jeff Mercier
09/12/2013 - Alpinism
Ghost Dog on Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites by Corrado Pesce and Jeff Mercier
Corrado Korra Pesce and Jeff Mercier have climbed Ghost Dog (WI6 XR/M5/6a 800m) a probable new ice and mixed route up the West Face of Sass Pordoi in the Dolomites.
Kyzyl Asker South Pillar - interview with Nicolas Favresse
03/12/2013 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker South Pillar - interview with Nicolas Favresse
Interview with Nicolas Favresse after the ascent, carried out together with Sean Villaneuva, Stéphane Hanssens and Evrard Wendenbaum, of the South Pillar of Kyzyl Asker (China) last September.
Ueli Steck and Annapurna: the interview after his South Face solo
14/10/2013 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck and Annapurna: the interview after his South Face solo
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck talks about his fast and impressive solo ascent up the South Face of Annapurna South (8091m, Nepal, Himalaya) that on 8 and 9 October 2013 enabled him to make the first ascent of the direct line attempted in 1992 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Pierre Beghin.
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
27/09/2013 - Interviews
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
Interview with Chilean alpinist Camilo Rada after the first ascent, carried out with Natalia Martinez from Argentina, of a new route up the North Face of Monte Sarmiento in Patagonia. Suerte de Sarmiento is only the second route to the East summit after the first ascent carried out by Clemente...
Argento vivo up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites
25/06/2013 - Alpinism
Argento vivo up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites
From 12 - 15 May Stefano Angelini, Alessandro Beber and Fabrizio Dellai established Argento vivo, a new ice and mixed route up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites. Alessandro Beber provides the details.
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
20/03/2013 - Alpinism
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
On 16 and 17 March 2013 the highly experienced Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first winter ascent of the Sagwand via the route Schiefer Riss first climbed by Mathias Rebitsch and Roland Berger in 1947.
Grand Muveran West Face steep skiing action in Switzerland
Grand Muveran West Face steep skiing action in Switzerland
On 2 March Sébastien de Sainte Marie, Olov Isaksson and Gilles Bornet skied the West Face of Grand Muveran (1600m, 5.2/5.3 E4) in Switzerland's Bernese Alps.
Markus Pucher and his solo ascent of the Cerro Torre Via dei Ragni
21/02/2013 - Alpinism
Markus Pucher and his solo ascent of the Cerro Torre Via dei Ragni
On 14/01/2013 Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher soloed the Via dei Ragni on Cerro Torre in  Patagonia in a lightening fast time of 3 hours 15 minutes from his bivouac below the Colle della Speranza... Pucher's story and our interview.
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey
20/01/2013 - Alpinism
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey
The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
18/01/2013 - Alpinism
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
17/01/2013 - Alpinism
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
15/01/2013 - Alpinism
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
A brief analysis of the new grade WI 11, put forward for the first time in February 2012 by Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett after having freed the single pitch ice climb Wolverine at the Helmcken Falls (Canada).
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...

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