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Daniel Jung reaps first repeat of Recovery drink, Favresse's difficult crack climb in Norway
10/08/2018 - Climbing
Daniel Jung reaps first repeat of Recovery drink, Favresse's difficult crack climb in Norway
German climber Daniel Jung has made the first repeat of Recovery drink, the difficult trad climb on the Profilveggen wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. First ascended in 2013 by Nicolas Favresse, the route had foiled some of the best crack climbers in the world.
Eiger double debut for Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
10/08/2018 - Alpinism
Eiger double debut for Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
On the North Face of the Eiger Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have repeated Deep Blue Sea and Magic Mushroom. This is the first time on the famous Swiss mountain for the two climbers.
Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum
09/08/2018 - Alpinism
Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum
On 6 August 2018 French mountaineer Mathieu Maynadier was hit by rockfall while on an climbing expedition in the Thagas Valley in Pakistan’s Karakorum with Nicolas Favresse, Carlos Molina and Jean-Louis Wertz. Maynadier was taken to Skardu military hospital by helicopter where his condition is far better than initially feared....
Hansjörg Auer: Lupghar Sar West solo interview
08/08/2018 - Interviews
Hansjörg Auer: Lupghar Sar West solo interview
Interview with Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer after his July 2018 solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West, a 7181 meter peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
Stigmata added to Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
06/08/2018 - Alpinism
Stigmata added to Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
Over a four-day period in August 2016 Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent, ground-up, of Stigmata, a multi-pitch rock climb up Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites freed by the duo on 17/07/2017 with difficulties up to X-.
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
02/08/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
Second episode dedicated to Espace Grivel, or to the first 200 years of the history of Grivel and alpinism.
Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Reiner Kauschke at 80 reclimbs his Superdirectissima
01/08/2018 - Alpinism
Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Reiner Kauschke at 80 reclimbs his Superdirectissima
Accompanied by mountain guide Christoph Hainz, Reiner Kauschke has repeated Superdirectissima up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. Kauschke had made the first ascent of the ‘Saxon Route' with Peter Siegert and Gert Uhner in 1963 and now he repeated the line in 17 hours...
Robert Jasper solo climbing expedition to Greenland
01/08/2018 - Interviews
Robert Jasper solo climbing expedition to Greenland
Interview with German alpinist Robert Jasper who is currently on a by fair means solo climbing trip to Greenland.
K2: Andrzej Bargiel historic first ski descent video
K2: Andrzej Bargiel historic first ski descent video
The video of the historic first ski descent of K2, carried out by Poland’s Andrzej Bargiel on 22 July 2018.
Latok I updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission
29/07/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission
Updates from Pakistan concerning the attempt to rescue Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov, trapped at 6200m altitude on Latok I (7145 m) in Karakorum.
Andrzej Bargiel completes historic first ski descent of K2
Andrzej Bargiel completes historic first ski descent of K2
On 22 July 2018 30-year-old Polish alpinist Andrzej Bargiel made the coveted historic first ski descent of K2, skiing directly off the 8611m high summit of the second highest mountain in the world.
Kachqiant climbed in Pakistan's Hindu Raj by Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher
19/07/2018 - Alpinism
Kachqiant climbed in Pakistan's Hindu Raj by Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher
A five-week climbing trip in June and July 2018 to the Hindu Raj mountain range in Pakistan resulted in the probable first ascent of Kachqiant, a 5990m peak overlooking the Dasbar Valley, by Dutch mountaineers Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher. Climbing partners Ruud Rotte and Menno Schokker made an unsuccessful...
Grivel: history, wonders and the first 200 years of mountaineering
19/07/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel: history, wonders and the first 200 years of mountaineering
A day with Gioachino Gobbi in Courmayeur, examining the history of Grivel and alpinism in the brand new Espace Grivel that will be inaugurated on 5 August 2018.
Ciao Monica
18/07/2018 - Alpinism
Ciao Monica
Two days ago Monica Campo Bagatin passed away. For over 35 years she ran the hut Rifugio Casèra Bosconero in Val di Zoldo, Dolomites and she was the first woman to join the Val Zoldana mountain rescue squad. On 28 July she would have received at Rocca Pietore the Pelmo...
Antelao, Dolomites: Enrico Paganin makes solo first ascent of Via Mamabi
15/07/2018 - Alpinism
Antelao, Dolomites: Enrico Paganin makes solo first ascent of Via Mamabi
Climbing alone on Saturday 30 June 2018, Enrico Paganin made what is likely to be a first ascent up the SW Face of Antelao in the Dolomites. An 'exploratory' climb that ‘doesn’t concentrate on the grade' and which, via a hidden series of diagonal ledges, enters into the heart of...
El Ojo Critico in Ordesa repeated by James Pearson
10/07/2018 - Alpinism
El Ojo Critico in Ordesa repeated by James Pearson
British rock climber James Pearson reports about his repeat of El Ojo Critico, the difficult multi-pitch trad climb ascended in Spain’s Ordesa National Park by Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi in 2007 and repeated previously only by Unai Mendia and Iker Madoz. Belayed by Caroline Ciavaldini, Pearson managed to onsight...