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Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
15/04/2016 - Book-press
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young sport.
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France
11/04/2016 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France
Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has made the first ascent of 'Ma belle ma muse', an 8c+ sports climb at Romeyer in France.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard
06/04/2016 - Alpinism
Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard
On 17 March 2016 the alpinists Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard have made the first ascent of Aller Simple pour Mars, a difficult new mixed climb up the Pic de l’Aurore face at Percé, Canada graded M7+ WI7- 190m.
Sardinia climbing news: all the routes on Monte Oddeu, Dorgali
04/04/2016 - Climbing
Sardinia climbing news: all the routes on Monte Oddeu, Dorgali
Using a new route on Sardinia’s Monte Oddeu as a pretext, Maurizio Oviglia introduces all the climbs up this mountains beautiful East Face, including the new "L’imbrago… bello stretto" established by Marco Marceddu and Daniele Turco in honor of Oskar Piazza.
Niccolò Ceria bouldering at Pietra del Toro in Basilicata
04/04/2016 - Climbing
Niccolò Ceria bouldering at Pietra del Toro in Basilicata
In late February Niccolò Ceria climbed at Pietra del Toro, a relatively unknown bouldering area in Southern Italy’s Basilicata region where he established a flurry of new problems, including the beautiful 8A+ ""Geometrie non Euclidee".
Lino D'Angelo farewell
30/03/2016 - Alpinism
Lino D'Angelo farewell
Lino D’Angelo, the man and mountaineer who came to represent Gran Sasso and Pietracamela, died in L'Aquila at the age of 95. An important piece of the history of mountaineering. The obituary by Roberto Iannilli.
Sport climbing at Leonidio, new multi-pitch climb in Greece
29/03/2016 - Climbing
Sport climbing at Leonidio, new multi-pitch climb in Greece
On the East Face of Garden of Dionysus above Leonidio in Greece the Italian climbers Dimitri Anghileri, Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera have opened Fuori di Zucca, a new 155m multi-pitch sports climb graded 7c+/8a (7b obligatory). The report by Dimitri Anghileri.
El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri
23/03/2016 - Climbing
El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri
In November 2015 Simone Pedeferri, Paolo Marazzi and Marco Maggioni made the first ascent of El Chaman Loco up the El Chaman face at El Salto, Mexico. Some pitches along this 400m climb still need to be freed, with difficulties estimated at 8c. The trip report by Paolo Marazzi.
Ron Fawcett - The Fingertip Phenomenon
19/03/2016 - Climbing
Ron Fawcett - The Fingertip Phenomenon
The classic 1984 climbing documentary by Sid Perou about Ron Fawcett, one of the outstanding rock climbers of the 1970s and early 1980s.
Alexander Megos, climbing video 1
18/03/2016 - Climbing
Alexander Megos, climbing video 1
The first of four climbing videos searching for the climbing secrets of Alexander Megos.
Video: Sean McColl climbing Gaia at Black Rocks
17/03/2016 - Climbing
Video: Sean McColl climbing Gaia at Black Rocks
Canadian climber Sean McColl repeating the trad climb Gaia E8 6c, established by Johnny Dawes at Black Rocks in England.
Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2016 at Chamonix
16/03/2016 - Alpinism
Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2016 at Chamonix
Registration is now online for the 5th Arcteryx Alpine Academy that will take place from 16 - 19 June 2016 at Chamonix, France. This unique event offers climbers of all abilities to learn more about climbing and alpinism directly on Mont Blanc.
Kevin Jorgeson: from rock climbing to migrant crisis humanitarian aid
15/03/2016 - Interviews
Kevin Jorgeson: from rock climbing to migrant crisis humanitarian aid
Interview with American climber Kevin Jorgeson, famous for his first free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite (together with Tommy Caldwell in January 2015), who is about to embark on a two week trip to the Greek island of Lesbos together with his fiancée Jacqui Becker....
Just Rocking
15/03/2016 - Climbing
Just Rocking
The Mediterranean. An island. Climbing. The rock climbers. A sea stack. The boulders. The bouldering. And the sun, sea and sky. The E9 Team friends and their climbing trip in this video and in these words.