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Antarctica first ascent / Marek Holeček and Míra Dub battle Bloody Nose up Monte Pizduch
16/02/2018 - Alpinism
Antarctica first ascent / Marek Holeček and Míra Dub battle Bloody Nose up Monte Pizduch
On Winkle Island, Antarctica, Marek Holeček and Míra Dub made the alpine style first ascent of Bloody Nose up the hitherto unclimbed Monte Pizduch located in the Mount Wheat massif. Carried out from 6 - 7 January 2018, the Czech mountaineers climbed alpine style for 33 hours, breached difficulties up...
Adam Ondra and the world premiere of the film Silence at Riva del Garda
14/02/2018 - Events
Adam Ondra and the world premiere of the film Silence at Riva del Garda
On Friday 23 February at 21.00 at Riva del Garda, Italy, Adam Ondra and the Garda Trentino will present a unique event: the world premiers of Silence, the film directed by Bernardo Giménez that documents the road that led to the world’s first 9c. Ondra will be joined on stage...
Solo per un altro Hashtag, new ice and mixed climb in Val Lasties, Dolomites
13/02/2018 - Alpinism
Solo per un altro Hashtag, new ice and mixed climb in Val Lasties, Dolomites
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: Johannes Egger reports about the first ascent of Solo per un altro Hashtag, a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Sella massif, first ascended on 27/01/2018 with Jörg Niedermayr and Friedl Brancalion.
Adam Ondra / Interview after world's first 9a+ flash at St. Léger in France
12/02/2018 - Interviews
Adam Ondra / Interview after world's first 9a+ flash at St. Léger in France
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra after the historic world’s first 9a+ flash, on Super Crackinette at Saint-Léger du Ventoux climbed on 10 February 2018.
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger: first winter ascent of Siberian Pik Pobeda
12/02/2018 - Alpinism
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger: first winter ascent of Siberian Pik Pobeda
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have carried out the first winter ascent of Pik Pobeda, also known as Gora Pobeda and at 3003 meters the highest mountain in Siberia, Arctic Polar Circle.
Giuliano Cameroni climbs IUR, one of Cresciano's best boulder problems
07/02/2018 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni climbs IUR, one of Cresciano's best boulder problems
Swiss boulderer Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of a series of quality boulder problems in the Ticino region of Switzerland. One of the highlights is IUR, a 8B+ described as one of the best in Cresciano.
Hansjörg Auer climbs new winter lines in Ötztal
06/02/2018 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer climbs new winter lines in Ötztal
On 19 January 2018 Hansjörg Auer and Tobias Holzknecht made the first ascent of Nordstau, a new mixed climb in the Ötztal, Austria. On 29 January Auer teamed up with Simon Messner to carry out the first winter ascent of the nearby North Face of Innerer Hahlkogel.
Adam Ondra climbs two 9a+ at Charmey and St Léger
06/02/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbs two 9a+ at Charmey and St Léger
At Charmey in Switzerland Adam Ondra has repeated Meiose, indicating 9a+ instead of the 9b grade suggested by first ascentionist Pirmin Bertle, while at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France the 25-year-old Czech climber has free yet another 9a+.
Erzurum and the Ice Climbing Festival in Turkey. The report by Anna Torretta
05/02/2018 - Alpinism
Erzurum and the Ice Climbing Festival in Turkey. The report by Anna Torretta
Anna Torretta reports about the Ice Climbing Festival held at Erzurum (Anatolia) in Turkey. Participants included the mountain guide from Courmayeur, Italy and the French mountain guide Jeff Mercier as well as Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord, Jost Kobusch and Raphael Schardt. Two new icefalls were established Cetin (WI5-) and Olga...
Florian Riegler deals with Sick and Tired, new mixed climb at Gampenpass Cave
02/02/2018 - Alpinism
Florian Riegler deals with Sick and Tired, new mixed climb at Gampenpass Cave
At the Grotta Gampenpass in the South Tyrol Florian Riegler and his brother Martin have established two new mixed climbs. The report by Florian Riegler.
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent
01/02/2018 - Alpinism
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent
On 11 January 2018 Ines Papert and Luka Lindic made what is likely to be the first winter traverse of the Watzmann (2713 m), Berchtesgaden Alps. Papert reports about this east to west climb across the third highest mountain in Germany.
Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera establish Maracaibo up Cerro Pollone
30/01/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera establish Maracaibo up Cerro Pollone
On the NW Face of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera established Maracaibo, a new rock climb 300 meters high graded 7a/C1.
Ice Climbing World Cup: HanNaRai Song extends her lead, Mohammadreza Safdarian Korouyeh claims Iran's first victory
29/01/2018 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup: HanNaRai Song extends her lead, Mohammadreza Safdarian Korouyeh claims Iran's first victory
On Saturday 27 January 2018 HanNaRai Song won Lead category in the Ice Climbing World Cup in Corvara in Val Passiria for the third consecutive time. In the men's competition there was a maiden victory when Mohammadreza Safdarian Korouyeh became the first Iranian ever to clinch a stage victory. The...
Nanga Parbat: ordeal ends for Elisabeth Revol!
28/01/2018 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: ordeal ends for Elisabeth Revol!
Elisabeth Revol has been rescued off Nanga Parbat by Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala who climbed ceaselessly throughout the night. A helicopter transported the Frenchwoman to Islamabad and she will now return to France for medical treatment, while the four mountaineers will return to their attempt...
Nanga Parbat, Elisabeth Revol reached by Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko
27/01/2018 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat, Elisabeth Revol reached by Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko
UPDATE at 22:28: Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko reach Elisabeth Revol! This morning the rescue operation began to try and save Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat. Two helicopters transported Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala from K2 to Nanga Parbat, dropping them off at...
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats La Capella at Siurana, his fourth 9b
12/01/2018 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats La Capella at Siurana, his fourth 9b
At the Spanish crag Siurana Stefano Ghisolfi has pulled off the second ascent of the 9b sports climb La Capella, freed by Adam Ondra in 2011. This is the 24-year-old Italian’s fourth climb of this difficulty.