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Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
14/01/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and Bielecki fell, fortunately without hurting himself. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek...
El Nino, new Hochgasser mixed climb by Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer
14/01/2016 - Alpinism
El Nino, new Hochgasser mixed climb by Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer
In early January 2016 Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of El Nino (M7, 120m) a new mixed climb on Hochgasser, East Tirol, Austria.
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in Patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and...
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
12/01/2016 - Alpinism
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
The report by Alessandro Baù who, in summer 2015 together with Claudio Migliorini and Giovanni Zaccaria, made the first ascent of Gigi La Trottola (IX, 450m) up the west face of Mulaz, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed the trilogy of new routes that includes the summits of...
Jakob Schubert repeats La planta de shiva 9b at Villanueva del Rosario
10/01/2016 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert repeats La planta de shiva 9b at Villanueva del Rosario
On 09/01/2016 at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain Jakob Schubert climbed his second 9b, La planta de shiva.
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
On Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites) Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner have climed Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, an icefall with difficulties up to V+/M6/WI6.
Chris Sharma boulders hard at Cova de Ocell
05/01/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma boulders hard at Cova de Ocell
At Cova de Ocell close to Barcelona in Spain Chris Sharma has freed a difficult boulder problem he has described as the "Catalan Witness the Fitness."
Kuffner ridge, scaling Mont Blanc's beauty and history
27/12/2015 - Alpinism
Kuffner ridge, scaling Mont Blanc's beauty and history
The Kuffner Ridge (also known as the Frontier Ridge), one of the classic and most beautiful ridge traverses in the Mont Blanc massif, described by mountain guide Thomas Scalise Meynet.
Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
23/12/2015 - Alpinism
Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
Yesterday 22 December 2015 the body of missing Japanese alpinist Kei Taniguchi was found on Mount Kuro in Japan. In 2009 she had been the first woman to win the prestigious Piolet d'Or.
Tris Rotondo, ski mountaineering master competition in Val Bedretto, Canton Ticino
22/12/2015 - Competitions
Tris Rotondo, ski mountaineering master competition in Val Bedretto, Canton Ticino
On Sunday 28 February 2016 the Tris Rotondo will take place in Canton Ticino, Switzerland. This top ski mountaineering competition is one of the most prestigious events in the ski touring circuit. The organizers have worked hard to ensure three different race courses and introduce some important novelties, such as...
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
21/12/2015 - Climbing
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
18/12/2015 - Alpinism
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
On 15/12/2015 The mountain guides Ezio Marlier and Thomas Scalise Meynet, together with Roger Bovard made the first ascent of Chloë (M6 WI 4 II), a new, beautiful and difficult ice climb in vallone del Grauson (Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.. Meynet reports about the ascent, tells the story of Chloë...
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti
17/12/2015 - Climbing
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti
Andrea Polo, Gabriele Gorobey and Carlo Giuliberti retrace this September’s first free ascent of Never the Same up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar. The three were accompanied by Marco Sterni who, in 1998, had made the first ascent of this multi-pitch rock climb together with Rolando Larcher and Erik Svab.
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani
16/12/2015 - Alpinism
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani
Mountaineering: on 7 and 8 December, 2015 Massimo Marcheggiani and Lorenzo Trento enchained the three Spalle del Corno Piccolo (Gran Sasso, Italy) in winter garb. The report by Massimo Marcheggiani
Ice Climbing World Cup 2016: Maxim Tomilov and Maria Tolokonina win in Bozeman
15/12/2015 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2016: Maxim Tomilov and Maria Tolokonina win in Bozeman
The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016 was won last weekend in Bozeman, USA, by the Russians Maxim Tomilov and Maria Tolokonina who took gold in both the Lead and Speed disciplines.