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Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck forge rock climbs in unexplored Zhangjiajie, China
03/07/2016 - Climbing
Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck forge rock climbs in unexplored Zhangjiajie, China
Video: Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck, Liu Yongbang and Xiao Ting explore new rock climbs in Zhangjiajie National Park, China.
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
02/07/2016 - Alpinism
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
Italian mountain guide Alberto De Giuli introduces Traumschiff, the classic multi-pitch sport climb established in 1986 by Simon Demetz and Karl Vinatzer up the Traumpfeiler face at Cansla, Meisules dla Biesces, Dolomites.
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
28/06/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have climbed Golden Shower (8b+, 150m), the multi-pitch route freed by Stefan Glowacz in 2012 in Verdon Gorge, France. Their ascent took place shortly after that of the Austrians Tobias Bitschnau and Christoph Schranz.
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
25/06/2016 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
The video of Sonnie Trotter climbing the Totem Pole in Tasmania via the Ewbank Route. Established by John Ewbank and Allan Keller with the use of aid in 1968, in 2009 Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins freed the individual pitches on separate days. Trotter’s ascent is the first free ascent...
New rock climb up Coste dell'Anglone in Valle del Sarca, Italy
24/06/2016 - Climbing
New rock climb up Coste dell'Anglone in Valle del Sarca, Italy
In 2015 Leonardo Dagani made the first ascent of Frog (6c, 220m), a new multi-pitch sports climb up the Piramide Lakshmi, Coste dell'Anglone, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana
23/06/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana
Sport climbing news: on 16/06/2016 at Flatanger in Norway Adam Ondra made the first ascent of the 9a+ climb 120 Degrees. And while the talented Japanese Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma have now reached this cave, at Oliana in Spain Klemen Bečan from Slovenia has repeated his second 9a+, Papichulo.
Alex Honnold climbing at The Needles
23/06/2016 - Climbing
Alex Honnold climbing at The Needles
American rock climber Alex Honnold solo climbing at The Needles in California, USA. The VR footage offers a 360° view and gives the sensation of actually being there.
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
17/06/2016 - Climbing
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher together with a series of different climbing partners has made the first ascent of Horror Vacui (8b+ max, 7b+ obl.) a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Scoglio dei Ciclopi face on Monte Cimo (Val d'Adige, Italy). As the name suggests, the line is a huge outing through...
Underground climbed by Jacopo Larcher at Massone, Arco
16/06/2016 - Climbing
Underground climbed by Jacopo Larcher at Massone, Arco
The report by Italian climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Underground, the 9a sports climb freed in 1998 by Manfred Stuffer at Massone close to Arco (Lake Garda – Trentino), Italy.
Pamela Shanti Pack climbing 'Am I Evil?'
15/06/2016 - Climbing
Pamela Shanti Pack climbing 'Am I Evil?'
The video of Pamela Shanti Pack making the first ascent of her newest off-width crack climb in the Moab desert called 'Am I Evil?'.
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
14/06/2016 - Climbing
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
Alessio Roverato provides the report and topo of Angelo Mio (250m, 7a +, 6c obl), a new rock climb he established together with Angela Carrar on Monte Spitz in Val Gadena (Valsugana VI).
Hart aber Fair, new multi-pitch rock climb in the Dolomites
13/06/2016 - Climbing
Hart aber Fair, new multi-pitch rock climb in the Dolomites
Simon Gietl and Simon Oberbacher have made the first ascent of 'Hart aber Fair', a new rock climb up Piz dla Dorada, above Colfosco in Alta Badia, Dolomites
Leonardo Comelli perishes on Laila Peak in Pakistan
10/06/2016 - Alpinism
Leonardo Comelli perishes on Laila Peak in Pakistan
On 9 June 2016, the 27-year-old Italian alpinist Leonardo Comelli died while attempting the first ski descent of Laila Peak (Karakorum, Pakistan). The other expedition members Carlo Cosi, Zeno Cecon and Enrico Mosetti, are unhurt.
Alexander Megos climbs Hubble. The Raven Tor interview.
03/06/2016 - Interviews
Alexander Megos climbs Hubble. The Raven Tor interview.
Interview with German climber Alexander Megos who on 31/05/2016 repeated Hubble, the climb first ascended by Ben Moon in 1990 at Raven Tor, UK, hailed as the world’s first 8c+.
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
01/06/2016 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
An expedition composed of the mountaineers Corrado Pesce, Damien Tomasi, Martin Elias, Sebastien Corret, Fanny Tomasi-Schmutz and Elodie Le Comte has repeated two routes on Bhagirathi III (6454m) in the Indian Himalayas. While the men repeated Estrella Impossible, the women repeated the Scottish Pillar. Corrado Korra Pesce provides the expedition...

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