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Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald establish Räuber Hotzenplotz, new mixed climb in South Tyrol
12/01/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald establish Räuber Hotzenplotz, new mixed climb in South Tyrol
South Tyrolean alpinists Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald have made the first ascent of Räuber Hotzenplotz (M9 Wi5). This mixed climb is located to the left of the famous Koflerbach icefall close to Sand in Taufers in the South Tyrol, Italy.
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
11/01/2019 - Alpinism
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
Brenta Dolomites winter climbing: on 01/01/2018 alpinists Ines Papert and Luka Lindič have made the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up the west face of Cima Tosa 3133m. The route was first completed by Tomas Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013.
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
08/01/2019 - Climbing
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
Roundup of recent redpoints at Margalef, Siurana and Perles in Spain by the Italian climbers Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati and Marco Zanone. In addition, noteworthy attempts at Saint Loup in Switzerland by Riccardo Scarian and Alessandro Zeni.
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
01/01/2019 - Climbing
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
Maurizio Oviglia introduces the new climbing guidebook to Domusnovas, in the south-west of Sardinia, one of the 'historic' sport climbing areas on the Italian island.
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
31/12/2018 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).
Utopia, Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner climb new mixed at Rein in Taufers
28/12/2018 - Alpinism
Utopia, Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner climb new mixed at Rein in Taufers
On 16 December 2018 Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Utopia, a new mixed climb close to Rein in Taufers in Italy.
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
27/12/2018 - Interviews
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Dolomites ice climbing / Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer swing up Sonnentanz in Langental
26/12/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing / Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer swing up Sonnentanz in Langental
In Langental / Vallunga Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Sonnentanz (WI5+ M7+ 260m), a mixed climb above Val Gardena, Dolomites.
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
25/12/2018 - Alpinism
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
On 14 December 2018 Gianni Canale, Demis Lorenzi and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Filo d’Ambiez ( AI, VI-, 350m), a direct line up the NW Face of Cima d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
22/12/2018 - Alpinism
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
The video of the ascent of the stunning ridge up Choktoi Ri 6166m in Pakistan’s Karakorum, first climbed in summer 2018 by Fabian Buhl and Alexander Huber. The 2200m route is called The Big Easy.
Rabenstein Ice Tower opens today
21/12/2018 - Alpinism
Rabenstein ice Tower opens today
On Friday 21 December 2018 the ice Tower at Rabenstein / Corvara in the Dolomites will open to the public. The structure will host a stage of the 2019 ice Climbing World Cup on 1 - 3 February 2019.
Gabriele Moroni is Off The Wagon in Valle Bavona
20/12/2018 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni is Off The Wagon in Valle Bavona
Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has repeated Off the Wagon, the famous boulder problem graded 8B+ in Val Bavona, Switzerland.
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
18/12/2018 - Alpinism
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco alla leggenda, Repentance super, La volpe e l’uva, Monday Money,...