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Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Help save Magic Wood's climber-run camping and hotel
28/07/2020 - Climbing
Help save Magic Wood's climber-run camping and hotel
A petition has been launched to support the Saluz family who run the hotel, campsite and restaurant in Magic Wood in Switzerland and are recognised as being the true custodians for one of the greatest bouldering destinations in the world.
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites
24/06/2020 - Alpinism
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites
Enrico Maioni, Cortina Mountain Guide, introduces Wolkenreise, a multi-pitch alpine sports climb Pilastro di Misurina in the Cadini Group of the Italian Dolomites, first ascended in 2017 by Peter Manhartsberger and Stefan Kopeinig and dedicated to Florian Thamer.
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
10/06/2020 - Alpinism
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)
Eleonora Delnevo: the sound of the epidemic affecting us all
28/03/2020 - Environment
Eleonora Delnevo: the sound of the epidemic affecting us all
'This is my city. This is Bergamo. This is the sound of the epidemic affecting us all.' Italian mountaineer Eleonora Delnevo shares the pain of her city battling against the coronavirus.
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
02/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
During a three-day bouldering stint in Austria’s Maltatal, Stefan Scarperi has sent a handful of testpieces: Bügeleisen 8B+ and Emotional Landscapes stand 8B, as well as a flash ascent of Wrestling with an alligator 8B. All these boulder problems were established by Klem Loskot around the new millennium. Scarperi reports.
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
28/02/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.
The World’s Hardest Ice Climb? Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls by Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl
27/02/2020 - Alpinism
The World’s Hardest ice climb? Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls by Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl
The video of Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada, established earlier this month by Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl. This is the first climb ever to be graded WI 13 and as such checks in as the hardest ice climb in the world.
Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl complete Mission To Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada
12/02/2020 - Alpinism
Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl complete Mission To Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada
At the Helmcken Falls in Canada Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have made the first ascent of Mission To Mars, a hugely overhanging ice climb they have graded WI 13.
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
25/01/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,
Hohe Warte, Raphaela Haug and Martin Schidlowski strut up Catwalk in Valsertal
19/01/2020 - Alpinism
Hohe Warte, Raphaela Haug and Martin Schidlowski strut up Catwalk in Valsertal
In Valsertal (Zillertal Alps, Tyrol) Martin Schidlowski and Raphaela Haug have climbed Catwalk, a probable new mixed line up the NE Face of Hohe Warte.
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
10/01/2020 - Alpinism
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports
Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayer celebrate Happy New Year ice climb in Dolomites
08/01/2020 - Alpinism
Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayer celebrate Happy New Year ice climb in Dolomites
In Langental (Val Gardena, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Happy New Year, a two-pitch mixed route graded M6+.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer spring up Seitensprung in Langental, Dolomites
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer spring up Seitensprung in Langental, Dolomites
On 27/12/2019 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of Seitensprung, a new ice climb in Val Lietres - Langental, Dolomites.
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.

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