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Mayan Smith-Gobat repeats Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, Dolomites
24/07/2012 - Climbing
Mayan Smith-Gobat repeats Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, Dolomites
Mayan Smith-Gobat, together with David Falt, has made the third free ascent of Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, Civetta, Dolomites. 750m, 8a in a ground-up, in a 32 hour single push with no bivy gear. Falt provides the report.
Rwenzori and Margherita Peak, the third highest mountain in Africa
19/04/2012 - Alpinism
Rwenzori and Margherita Peak, the third highest mountain in Africa
David Orlandi introduces the Central Circuit Trail in the Rwenzori mountain range in Uganda and the ascent of Margherita Peak 5109m, the third highest mountain in Africa.
Iker Pou, new routes at Margalef and Ilarduia
27/02/2012 - Climbing
Iker Pou, new routes at Margalef and Ilarduia
Iker Pou has freed Enemigo Público Nº1 8c+/9a) at the Spanish crag Margalef, while at Ilarduia he has freed Harroputza 9a.
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet: I am the mountains I have not climbed
24/11/2011 - Alpinism
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet: I am the mountains I have not climbed
During their third evening entitled 'I am the mountains I have not climbed' the Italian alpinists Nives Meroi and Romano Benet talked about their mountaineering and life story. This was a special evening dedicated to a special story, as Manuel Lugli recounts.
Cerro Kishtwar important Himalayan first ascent for David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost
30/10/2011 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar important Himalayan first ascent for David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost
David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost have established a new route up the NW Face via their Yoniverse to reach the summit of Cerro Kishtwar (6155m), Himalaya. Siegrist and Burdet then ascended the nearby untouched 6040m peak White Saphire.
Liscia Palazzo, climbing in Abruzzo
29/07/2011 - Climbing
Liscia Palazzo, climbing in Abruzzo
Andrea Di Donato and Tommaso Sciannella introduce the great little crag l Liscia Palazzo in Abruzzo, 24 routes from 5b - 7a+ at 1200m altitude.
Kahiltna Peaks West (Alaska): new route by Meraldi and Giovannini
20/06/2011 - Alpinism
Kahiltna Peaks West (Alaska): new route by Meraldi and Giovannini
On 24/05/2011 Fabio Meraldi and Diego Giovannini established a new route up the East Spur of Kahiltna Peaks West (3914m, McKinley-Denali mountain chain, Alaska).
Shark's Tooth, first ascent in Greenland by Ruchkin and Mikhaylov
10/06/2011 - Alpinism
Shark's Tooth, first ascent in Greenland by Ruchkin and Mikhaylov
At the start of May Alexander Ruchkin and Mikhail Mikhaylov carried out the first ascent of the Shark's Tooth (1555m) in Greenland via their route 'Dance on Tiptoes' (1210m, VII A2, 6c).
Fredrik Ericsson, fatal accident on K2
09/08/2010 - Alpinism
Fredrik Ericsson, fatal accident on K2
On 6 August Fredrik Ericsson fell to his death from the Bottleneck on K2. The Swedish alpinist was climbing with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner from Austria who descended safely to Base Camp. Kaltenbrunner's husband Ralf Dujmovit provides the details about the accident.
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
21/06/2010 - Alpinism
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca, Perù). During the same time period Luca D’Andrea and Massimo...
Lhotse new variation by Denis Urubko
18/05/2010 - Alpinism
Lhotse new variation by Denis Urubko
On 16/05/2010 the Kazakh mountaineer Denis Urubko reached the summit of Lhotse via a new variation from the South Col.
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
Khumbu new climbs
17/02/2010 - Alpinism
Khumbu new climbs
At the end of 2009 Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Melis and Francesco Cantù establised three new routes in the Khumbu valley, Nepal.
First ascents in the Antarctica Queen Maud Land
First ascents in the Antarctica Queen Maud Land
A three man Austrian expedition to Queen Maud Land in the Antarctica at the end of 2009 resulted in eleven first ascents.
Tomaz Humar
19/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar
The charismatic Slovenian climber who became one of the world's leading mountaineers, remembered by British journalist Ed Douglas.
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
08/09/2009 - Climbing
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian Direct on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.