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Ouray Ice Festival 2010
17/01/2010 - Events
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...
Sandro Neri: 10 years for Emicrania
16/12/2009 - Climbing
Sandro Neri: 10 years for Emicrania
After 10 years of trying the Italian climber Sandro Neri has managed to repeat Emicrania 8b at Ceresera (Belluno).
Echo Wall, Ben Nevis, by Dave Macleod
15/12/2009 - Climbing
Echo Wall, Ben Nevis, by Dave Macleod
Dave Macleod analyses his ascent of Echo Wall on Ben Nevis. Climbed in July 2008, this terrifying route represented a new level of trad climbing for the 29 year old Scottish climber.
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
01/12/2009 - Climbing
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.
Alan Watts climbing interview
26/11/2009 - Climbing
Alan Watts climbing interview
Interview with Alan Watts, the climber who played a leading role during the 1980's in developing Smith Rock into one of the most famous crags in the USA and the world.
Kilian Fischhuber repeats Des Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+
23/11/2009 - Climbing
Kilian Fischhuber repeats Des Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+
Kilian Fischhuber from Austria has repeated Des Kaisers neue Kleider (250m, 8b+) on the Wilder Kaiser, Austria.
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
14/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
This morning at 05.25 European time the dead body of Slovenian alpinist Tomasz Humar was recovered from 5600m on the South Face of Langtang Lirung (7230m, Nepal) by a helicopter with a rescue team comprised of Swissmen Robert Andenmatten and Simon Anthmatten (Air Zermatt) and the Italians Oskar Piazza and...
Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday
10/11/2009 - Climbing
Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday
45 year old Arthur Kubista has made the first ascent of Der lange Atem 9a+ at Schattenreich, Höllental, Austria. Maurizio Oviglia recounts this latest ascent of one of the strongest and least known Austrian climbers of all times.
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
03/11/2009 - Climbing
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
Interview with Riccardo Scarian who on 27/10/2009 climbed the second half of Masada on Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites), and freed the crux pitch at 8b.
Wenden: Andreas and Neumärker climb Zahir+ 8c
30/10/2009 - Climbing
Wenden: Andreas and Neumärker climb Zahir+ 8c
Jörg Andreas and Felix Neumärker from Germany carried out the first repeat of Zahir on the Wendenstöcke in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, extending a pitch and upgrading it to 8c.
Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia
27/10/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia
Interview with Adam Ondra who on 20/10/2009 made the first ascent of his hardest route ever, Marina Superstar at Bronx at the crag Grotta San Giovanni in Sardinia. The young Czech climber has "suggested" 9a+/b!
Selvaggio Blu, 20 year anniversary of the most famous trek in Sardinia
21/10/2009 - Environment
Selvaggio Blu, 20 year anniversary of the most famous trek in Sardinia
Marcello Cominetti retraces the twenty year history of Selvaggio Blu, the path which goes right through the wild and poetic heart of Sardinia.
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
08/10/2009 - Climbing
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
On 26/27/08/2009 Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira carried out the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (550m 8b) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Stevie Haston interview
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Stevie Haston interview
Interview with British climber Steve Haston after his recent first ascent of Descente Lolitta at the Grotte de Sabart in Ariege, France.
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.

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