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Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Zaila Rakhmetov, encouraging news
04/06/2010 - Climbing
Zaila Rakhmetov, encouraging news
Encouraging news about Zaila Rakhmetov, the daughter of Salavat and Guzel Rakhmetov.
Appeal by Salavat Rakhmetov for his daughter Zaila
28/05/2010 - Climbing
Appeal by Salavat Rakhmetov for his daughter Zaila
Following a serious accident to his daughter Zaila, the Russian climber Salavat Rakhmetov has launched an appeal to the entire climbing community.
Himalayan helicopter rescues
25/05/2010 - Alpinism
Himalayan helicopter rescues
Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.
Climbing meeting at Buoux Face Ouest
11/05/2010 - Climbing
Climbing meeting at Buoux Face Ouest
Escala'Buoux and the meeting at Buoux to celebrate the lifting of the climbing ban on Face Ouest.
De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica
06/05/2010 - Climbing
De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica
On 16 April Maurizio Oviglia and Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of De rerum natura (230m, 7c max, 7a obbl, /RS2+/II) on Punta u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica.
Marco Da Pozzo has left us
26/04/2010 - Alpinism
Marco Da Pozzo has left us
Marco Da Pozzo died this morning after falling from the roof of the church steeple he was fixing at Cortina d'Ampezzo. An extremely talented climber and alpinist, Marco Da Pozzo was one of the most famous and highly regarded members of the Scoiattoli mountaineering club and Cortina d'Ampezzo Mountain Guides.
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
Adam Ondra climbs Golpe de estado at Siurana
22/03/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbs Golpe de estado at Siurana
On 13/03/2010 Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic repeated Golpe de estado 9b at Siurana, his hardest climb to date.
25th Pierra Menta
16/03/2010 - Competitions
25th Pierra Menta
The four day ski mountaineering marathon in Arêches-Beaufort (France) was won by the Spanish-Swiss team comprised of Kilian Jornet Burgada and Florent Troillet. The women's event was won by the Italians Francesca Martinelli and Roberta Pedranzini.
Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
08/03/2010 - Competitions
Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
On 05/03/2010 the 15th Sellaronda Skimarathon, the historic ski mountaineering race in the Dolomites, was won by Guido Giacomelli and Hansjoerg Lunger ahead of Thomas Martini and Matteo Pedergnana, followed by Ivan Antiga and Trettel Thomas. The womens' event was won by the Weger and Gross. The extenuating and freezing...
Dave MacLeod, new desperate winter climb in Scotland
26/02/2010 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod, new desperate winter climb in Scotland
Dave MacLeod has carried out the first winter ascent of Anubis, at E8 6c one of the hardest summer routes on Ben Nevis which was, unsurprisingly, first ascended in 2005 by Macleod himself.
When icefalls crack
25/02/2010 - Alpinism
When icefalls crack
The story of an ice pillar collapsing. An adventure which thankfully resulted in no injuries, but which provides ample food for thought...
Khumbu new climbs
17/02/2010 - Alpinism
Khumbu new climbs
At the end of 2009 Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Melis and Francesco Cantù establised three new routes in the Khumbu valley, Nepal.
Simon Anthamatten interview
08/02/2010 - Interviews
Simon Anthamatten interview
Ellade Ossola interviews Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Simon Anthamatten, a key player in the mountaineering world with important ascents to his name which have their roots in his desire to maintain an "independent" alpinism.
Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
04/02/2010 - Alpinism
Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
Italian alpinist Claudio Corti died during the night of 3 February at the age of 81 at his home in Lecco. He will be remembered as a member of the Gruppo Ragni della Grignetta but also as a man who knew how to tackle great tests, both in the mountains...

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