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New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
14/09/2009 - Climbing
Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
In August Ines Papert from Germany and Lisi Steurer from Austria made the first ascent of 'Power of Silence' 400m, 5.13a on the Middle Huey Spire in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada.
Orbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou
09/09/2009 - Climbing
Orbayu 8c+/9a on Naranjo de Bulnes for Iker and Eneko Pou
In August 2009 the Spanish brothers Eneko and Iker Pou carried out the first ascent of Orbayu 8c+/9a, 510m Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain which they describe as their most important route ever.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.
Greenland climbing – new routes by Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
31/08/2009 - Climbing
Greenland climbing – new routes by Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
In August Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski from Poland climbed a virgin peak and established two big new routes in remote area of Torsukattak fjord in southern Greenland.
Climbing at Bassilandia, Arco
14/07/2009 - Climbing
Climbing at Bassilandia, Arco
Beautiful crag dedicated to the late Roberto Bassi, located above romantic Lake Toblino and surprisingly never too crowded.
Climbing World Championships, Qinghai, China
07/07/2009 - Competitions
Climbing World Championships, Qinghai, China
The IFSC Climbing World Championships drew to a close on 05/07/2009 in Qinghai with Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (ESP) and Johanna Ernst (AUT) winning the Lead. The Russians Alexey Rubtsov and Yulia Abramchuk won the Bouldering event, while Speed was won by the Chinese Qixin Zhong and Cuilian He.
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
02/07/2009 - Climbing
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.
Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos
25/06/2009 - Climbing
Manolo 8b+ on-sight at Kalymnos
On 19/06/2009 Maurizio Zanolla, alias Manolo, on-sighted Rock and Blues at the Olympic Wall on Kalymnos, Greece.
In memory of Michele Fait
24/06/2009 - Climbing
In memory of Michele Fait
On 23 June the Italian mountaineer Michele Fait lost his life skiing from Camp 2 on the Cesen route on K2.
Picos de Europa, Naranjo de Bulnes, rock climbing in Spain's secretive mountain paradise
15/06/2009 - Climbing
Picos de Europa, Naranjo de Bulnes, rock climbing in Spain's secretive mountain paradise
The mysterious place that everyone seems to have heard about, but where not many have dared venture! Under-rated and often overlooked, the Picos de Europa is Northern Spain's hidden secret! Consisting of a huge area of wild limestone peaks, it offers rock climbers and mountaineers a wealth of routes in...
Top sport climbing: searching for the lost limit
04/06/2009 - Climbing
Top sport climbing: searching for the lost limit
The latest news from the crags, or rather, when 9a isn't that difficult anymore and 8c approaches a rest... Dani Andrada, Markus Bock, Edu Marin, Adam Ondra, Gérôme Pouvreau, Chris Sharma, Maja Vidmar but also Dino Lagni and Luca Zardini.
More about Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and the questions of style
03/06/2009 - Alpinism
More about Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and the questions of style
The letter by Andreas Dick concerning 'A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks' and the reply by the author of the article, Manuel Lugli. Furthermore we've published the thoughts by Cristina Castagna, the Italian mountaineer from Valdagno who has climbed 4 8000m peaks and...
Italy, Spain and the 8000m peaks by Nives Meroi and Edurne Pasaban
27/05/2009 - Alpinism
Italy, Spain and the 8000m peaks by Nives Meroi and Edurne Pasaban
Ismael Santos, the great Spanish basketball player and passionate mountaineer based in Italy, shares his views about how the public opinion and Spanish and Italian media perceives the achievements of Nives Meroi and Edurne Pasaban. We believe this to be an important contribution which helps comprehend what is happening and...
A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks
26/05/2009 - Alpinism
A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks
Edurne Pasaban with Kanchenjunga and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner with Lhotse have reached the summit of 12 8000m peaks. Nives Meroi and Romano Benet on the other hand have had to abandon their Kanchenjunga summit bid and have therefore climbed 11. The thoughts of Manuel Lugli about this female "race" to complete...

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