227 News found

18/02/2021 - Interviews
Simon Lorenzi talks Soudain seul, his 9A boulder problem at Fontainebleau in France Interview with Simon Lorenzi after the first ascent of Soudain seul, ie the sit start to Big Island at Fontainebleau in France, which the Belgian rock climber has graded 9A.

29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...

27/12/2020 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Harder, faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks At Black Rocks in England James Pearson has repeated the extremely dangerous gritstone testpiece Harder, faster while his wife Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Gaia. Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, while Ciavaldini claims the third female ascent.

24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...

16/11/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the Rieserferner group of the Tauern Alps. At 3/4 height the...

01/09/2020 - Alpinism
Eiger Odyssee climbed in a day by Nicolas Favresse & Sébastien Berthe Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse and Sébastien Berthe have repeated Odyssee, one of the hardest rock climbs on the North Face of the the Eiger in Switzerland.

09/06/2020 - Climbing
Sardinia’s Monte Arista hosts new crack climb Black Lives Matter On Monte Arista in Sardinia, Italy, Simone Desogus and Maurizio Oviglia have made the first ascent of the crack climb Black Lives Matter.

05/06/2020 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven frees Kraftio, the hardest climb in Belgium dedicated to Chloé Graftiaux Anak Verhoeven has made the first ascent of Kraftio, an old project in Belgium. Graded 8c+/9a it is currently the hardest climb in the country and is a tribute to Chloé Graftiaux, the talented Belgian climber who perished in 2010.

31/05/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora first Italian woman to climb 9a+, Pure Dreaming Plus at Arco At the crag Massone in Arco, Italy, Laura Rogora repeated Pure Dreaming Plus, a 9a+ sports climb first ascended by Adam Ondra. The Roman climber is now the first Italian woman, and only the fifth woman in the world after Margo Hayes, Anak Verhoeven, Angela Eiter and Julia Chanourdie to...

12/04/2020 - Alpinism
Marcel Remy, 94, climbing Miroir de l’Argentine in Switzerland The film Marcel directed by Nicolas Falquet which follows Marcel Remy as he climbs the west face of Miroir de l'Argentine in Switzerland. Father of the famous Swiss mountaineers Claude and Yves Remy, Marcel repeated the route in 2017 aged 94.

19/03/2020 - Alpinism
Luka Lindič & Luka Krajnc add new route to Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia Interview with Slovenian alpinists Luka Lindič and Luka Krajnc after their first ascent of Mir, a new climb up Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia.

05/03/2020 - Interviews
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.

02/03/2020 - Competitions
Alannah Yip and Colin Duffy qualify for Tokyo 2020 Olympics Canada’s Alannah Yip and Colin Duffy from the USA have qualified for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games.

28/02/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.

05/02/2020 - Alpinism
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo Spanish mountain guide Santiago Padrós reports about a big new winter climb up Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero (2412m) in the Zoldo Dolomites, established on 30/01/2020 with Diego Toigo. The mixed outing is called Madre Tierra and was completed after a failed first attempt with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero Arena.

21/01/2020 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat sends sixth 9a+, Pachamama at Oliana Swissman Cédric Lachat has repeated Pachamama, the 9a+ established by Chris Sharma in 2009 at Oliana in Spain.
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