207 News found
10/07/2017 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps, the going gets tough even for Christian Maurer The ninth day of the Red Bull X-Alps 2017 proved to be more difficult than expected with many athletes making little headway, including competition leader Christian Maurer who is currently 150 km from the finish line.
06/07/2017 - Climbing
Gross Wellhorn, new alpine climbs by Silvan Schüpbach in Bernese Oberland On the North Pillar of Gross Wellhorn (Bernese Oberland, Switzerland) Silvan Schüpbach with the help of various climbing partners established two difficult multi-pitch alpine climbs, Adrenlinchiubi (7c max 7b obligatory, 250m) and Röck u Zöpf (7c max 7b obligatory, 230m).
27/06/2017 - Events
Mike Kosterlitz, Nobel Prize in Physics 2016, awarded Climbing Ambassador at the Arco climbing Oscars On 25 August 2017 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) the Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil 2017 prize will be awarded to Mike Kosterlitz, Nobel Prize in Physics 2016 and legends name in the climbing world.
04/03/2017 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert Winter mountaineering: Luka Lindič and Ines Papert ascended the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (4208m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France, combining the routes 'No Siesta' and 'Bonatti - Vaucher' from 20 - 22 February 2017 and with two bivies.
16/02/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Murallón, Patagonia, alpinism and a story of former times: the East Face first ascent by Bacci, Bernasconi and Della Bordella The alpinism and adventure up 'El Valor del Miedo’ (1000m, 90°, M6+, A2), the new mixed route established by the Ragni di Lecco climbers David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella who finally resolved the long-standing problem of the East Face of Cerro Murallon in Patagonia. The first ascent...
14/02/2017 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti archive acquired by Turin Mountain Museum In October 2016 the Turin-based Mountain Museum acquired the archive of Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti; a immense treasure that still needs to be catalogued, studied and archived for the history of mountaineering and more.
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
05/01/2017 - Alpinism
El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.
31/12/2016 - Climbing
President Obama declares Bears Ears National Monument, Indian Creek and Utah climbing protected On 28 December 2016 the President of the United States Barack Obama established the Bears Ears National Monument. This proclamation permanently protects a region which includes Indian Creek, Lockhart Basin, Arch Canyon, Texas Canyon, and many other sandstone climbing areas and is the first bill that specifically acknowledges rock climbing...
28/11/2016 - Climbing
The routes climbing photographers dream of Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
20/10/2016 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno on Naranjo de Bulnes German climbers Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl have made the first free ascent of 'Sueños de Invierno' (540m, 8a), the rock climb first ascended in 1983 by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives up Naranjo de Bulnes / Picu Urriellu (2518m) in Spain.
18/10/2016 - Climbing
Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.
03/07/2016 - Climbing
Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck forge rock climbs in unexplored Zhangjiajie, China Video: Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck, Liu Yongbang and Xiao Ting explore new rock climbs in Zhangjiajie National Park, China.
04/06/2016 - Climbing
Marcin Tomaszewski discovers Thor on Norway's Preikestolen On Preikestolen - Pulpit Rock - in Norway Marcin Tomaszewski from Poland has made the first ascent of the amazing single pitch climb Thor.
Update 30/06/2016: Working closely with the local climbing community, Tomaszewski has agreed to remove the bolts in the near future and plans are, if possible, to lead...
16/05/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland Interview with South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Rhapsody, one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, on 7 May 2016 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.
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