203 News found

The alpinism and adventure up 'El Valor del Miedo’ (1000m, 90°, M6+, A2), the new mixed route established by the Ragni di Lecco climbers David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella who finally resolved the long-standing problem of the East Face of Cerro Murallon in Patagonia. The first ascent...

In October 2016 the Turin-based Mountain Museum acquired the archive of Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti; a immense treasure that still needs to be catalogued, studied and archived for the history of mountaineering and more.

From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...

Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.

On 28 December 2016 the President of the United States Barack Obama established the Bears Ears National Monument. This proclamation permanently protects a region which includes Indian Creek, Lockhart Basin, Arch Canyon, Texas Canyon, and many other sandstone climbing areas and is the first bill that specifically acknowledges rock climbing...

Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.

German climbers Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl have made the first free ascent of 'Sueños de Invierno' (540m, 8a), the rock climb first ascended in 1983 by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives up Naranjo de Bulnes / Picu Urriellu (2518m) in Spain.

Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.

Video: Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck, Liu Yongbang and Xiao Ting explore new rock climbs in Zhangjiajie National Park, China.

On Preikestolen - Pulpit Rock - in Norway Marcin Tomaszewski from Poland has made the first ascent of the amazing single pitch climb Thor.

Update 30/06/2016: Working closely with the local climbing community, Tomaszewski has agreed to remove the bolts in the near future and plans are, if possible, to lead...

Interview with South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Rhapsody, one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, on 7 May 2016 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.

Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti, the historical organisers of Melloblocco, talk about the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016. Over 1300 climbers are set to take part in the 13th...

Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young sport.

Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...

Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed the trilogy of new routes that includes the summits of...