1789 News found

In the footsteps of Erhard Loretan and André Georges and their Imperial Crown, the great winter enchainment of 38 peaks in Switzerland’s Valais Alps, of which 30 are over 4000 meters, completed in 1986. By Ivo Ferrari.

The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and Bielecki fell, fortunately without hurting himself. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek...

From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in Patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and...

On 09/01/2016 at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain Jakob Schubert climbed his second 9b, La planta de shiva.

On 15/12/2015 The mountain guides Ezio Marlier and Thomas Scalise Meynet, together with Roger Bovard made the first ascent of Chloë (M6 WI 4 II), a new, beautiful and difficult ice climb in vallone del Grauson (Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.. Meynet reports about the ascent, tells the story of Chloë...

The Canadian alpinists Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken have repeated The Mustang P-51 (M14-) at The Fang Amphitheater, Vail, Colorado, USA.

At the Bürser Platte in Voralberg, Austria, Jacopo Larcher has repeated Psychogramm, the trad climb graded 8b+.

Mountaineering: on 7 and 8 December, 2015 Massimo Marcheggiani and Lorenzo Trento enchained the three Spalle del Corno Piccolo (Gran Sasso, Italy) in winter garb. The report by Massimo Marcheggiani

The trip report of the Slovenian climbing expedition to Patagonia, during which the alpinists Dejan Koren, Boštjan Mikuz, Rok Kurinčič, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic established three new routes: Exit, Direct Route and No Fiesta (ED+, 1600m), the latter established in 40 hours up the East Face of Cerro San...

Italy’s Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c sports climb located at beautiful Osso, freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012 and repeated only by Gabriele Moroni. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.

On 22 November 2015 at Andonno (Italy) Silvio Reffo repeated Noia 8c+, the sports climb first ascended in 1993 by Severino Scassa.

On 16/11/2015 Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck climbed the Heckmair route up the North Face of the Eiger in 2 hours and 22 minutes, beating the previous record set in 2011 by Dani Arnold by 6 minutes

Towards the end of September 39-year-old Czech climber Petr Blaha redpointed his first 9a, Abysse at Gorges du Loup. Roman Bayon provides the short interview.

Nicola Tondini introduces three multi-pitch rock climbs located on Monte Cimo (Brentino, Val d’Adige, Italy) they are united, apart from their difficulty, by their extraordinary beauty: Tra Nuvole e Sogni and The Edge on Sass Mesdì, and Destini Incrociati on Castel Presina.

The brief video of Ueli Steck and Kilian Jornet Burgada climbing the North Face of the Eigher via the Heckmair route.

The report by Walter Polidori, leader of the Italian 1 to 1 Challenge, the climbing expedition to Khane Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.