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La Banda del Buco, new route on Monte Pellegrino, Sicily
28/06/2011 - Climbing
La Banda del Buco, new route on Monte Pellegrino, Sicily
On 5-6 April 2011 the Italians Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori established La banda del buco (175m, 7a+/7b max, 6c+ obbl.) a new route up the North Face of Antro della Perciata on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).
The Phoenix solo – Alex Honnold interview and rare Ray Jardine insight
17/06/2011 - Interviews
The Phoenix solo – Alex Honnold interview and rare Ray Jardine insight
Interview with the American climbers Alex Honnold and Ray Jardine after Honnold's solo of The Phoenix (5.13a) in Yosemite Valley.
Zauberberg on Ciastel de Chedul: Riegler brothers first free ascent
16/06/2011 - Alpinism
Zauberberg on Ciastel de Chedul: Riegler brothers first free ascent
On 2 June 2011 Florian and Martin Riegler freed "Zauberberg" (the Magic Mountain) 8a max on Ciastel de Chedul, Vallunga (Val Gardena - Dolomites).
Denali, South Face first ski descent and fast Cassin Ridge ascent
08/06/2011 - Alpinism
Denali, South Face first ski descent and fast Cassin Ridge ascent
Swedish skier Andreas Fransson has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Denali (6197m), while British alpinists Jonathan Griffith and Will Sim have sped up the Cassin ridge in 14 hours 40 minutes.
Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent by Hansjörg Auer
27/05/2011 - Climbing
Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent by Hansjörg Auer
Interview with Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer after the 22 April first free ascent of Hallucinogen Wall 5.13+/R in the Black Canyon, Colorado, USA.
Delicatessen, first repeat in Corsica's Bavella after 10 years by Nina Caprez, Cédric Lachat
24/05/2011 - Climbing
Delicatessen, first repeat in Corsica's Bavella after 10 years by Nina Caprez, Cédric Lachat
Cédric Lachat and Nina Caprez have carried out the first and second repeat of Delicatessen at Punta d’u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica. The 120m high 8b was established by Arnaud Petit and Stéphane Husson in 1992 and freed by Arnaud in 2001.
Caroline Ciavaldini climbs E8 at Pembroke
23/05/2011 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini climbs E8 at Pembroke
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Point Blank E8 at Stennis Ford, Pembroke.
Pompa Funebre, new route by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori on Monte Pellegrino, Palermo
11/05/2011 - Climbing
Pompa Funebre, new route by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori on Monte Pellegrino, Palermo
On 31/03 and 01/04/2011 Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori completed the first ascent of Pompa Funebre (150m, 8b max, 7a+ obligatory). The route had previously been started by Larcher, Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia up the NE Face of Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
29/04/2011 - Alpinism
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
On Thursday 28 April Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Erhard Loretan died in a climbing accident while ascending Grünhorn in the Bernse Alps. Loretan was one of the greatest alpinists of the modern era, the third person to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks and the second to do so...
Abele Blanc summits Annapurna and all 8000ers
26/04/2011 - Alpinism
Abele Blanc summits Annapurna and all 8000ers
At 13.40 Nepalese time Italian mountain Guide Abele Blanc reached the summit of Annapurna (8091m, Nepal, Himalaya). In doing so he has now ascended all 14 8000ers, and is the third Italian to do so without supplementary oxygen.
Ueli Steck top speed solo on Shisha Pangma
18/04/2011 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck top speed solo on Shisha Pangma
On 17/04/2011 Swissman Ueli Steck ascended Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet in record time.
Dolasilla, new Fanes mixed route in the Dolomites
06/04/2011 - Alpinism
Dolasilla, new Fanes mixed route in the Dolomites
Florian Riegler has established Dolasilla (M13-), a new mixed route in Val Travenanzes (Fanes massif, Dolomites). The first free ascent was carried out by Pavol Rajcan from Slovak Republic.
Goodbye Doug Lang
31/03/2011 - Alpinism
Goodbye Doug Lang
Scottish climber Doug Lang died in avalanche in Corrie Fee on 18/03/2011 aged 69. Simon Richardson remembers the man who played a leading role in the Scottish mountainering for over 50 years.
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award. Details of the evening dedicated to Extra-Ordinary...
From the Pierra Menta to the Grande Course... the changing face of ski mountaineering competitions
19/03/2011 - Competitions
From the Pierra Menta to the Grande Course... the changing face of ski mountaineering competitions
The Grande Course has just begun, the first international ski mountaineering cup comparable to a tennis Grand Slam. Action kicked off on 17 March on the slopes of France's Arêches-Beaufort, which hosted the Grenoble winter Olympics, with the classic French ski mountaineering competition Pierra Menta which dates back to 1985.
Fabio Valseschini, interview after the first winter solo on Civetta
28/02/2011 - Interviews
Fabio Valseschini, interview after the first winter solo on Civetta
Fabio Valseschini talks about his recent great winter solo ascent of the Via dei 5 di Valmadrera up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites), as well as his alpinism and his love for the mountains.

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