1075 News found

Severino "Seve" Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis have freed an old route at the crag Coup di Rore in Val Varaita (Piemonte, Italy). Established with the use of aid during the 1970's, the route breaches the large roof and remained a project until autumn 2011. A story of past and...

Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.

Interview with Johnny Dawes, one of the most talented and influential British climbers of all times.

This December Roger Schaeli and Simon Gietl established Let's get wild (600m, 7a, 90°), their new route up Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in Patagonia.

On 19/11/2011 Reto Ruhstaller made what is likely to be the first onsight ascent of Ben Hur 7c+ on the Wendenstöcke, Switzerland

On 06/11/2011 Patrick Matros established Archon, an 8b trad route in the Frankenjura, Germany.

Italian climber Pietro dal Prà together with Alessandro Rudatis has established two difficult new multi-pitches, In mezzo poco (400m, 8a+) and Gracias a la Vida (270m, 8a+) up Lastia de Gardes in the Italian Dolomites.

From 26 to 30 October 2011 the 10th Petzl Rock Trip took place in Getu Valley, China. Many of the world's best climbers took part in the event dedicated to climbing and partying. Gabriele Moroni from Italy managed to free a new 9a while Dani Andrada from Spain freed his...

On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.

Italian climber Pietro dal Prà together with Alessandro Rudatis has established two difficult new multi-pitches, In mezzo poco (400m, 8a+) and Gracias a la Vida (270m, 8a+) up Lastia de Gardes in the Italian Dolomites.

Matteo Bernasconi and Davide Spini have established Cose Turche (300m 7a obligatory/8b?) up Kazilin Basi (2944m) in the Ala Daglar, Turkey.

German climber Heiko Queitsch has climbed the famous Frankenjura routes Fight Gravity (by Kurt Albert) and Chasin the Train (by John Bachar) without using the bolts but with trad gear.

In August 2011 German climbers Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur established Dreams of Youth (8c, 700m) up Tsaranoro Atsimo, Madagascar.

On 17/10/2011 Riccardo Scarian carried out the first free ascent of Shakti (200m, max 8b+/8c, obl. 7c/8a), the route he had established in August 2011 with various partners up the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo, Valnuvola.

David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost have established a new route up the NW Face via their Yoniverse to reach the summit of Cerro Kishtwar (6155m), Himalaya. Siegrist and Burdet then ascended the nearby untouched 6040m peak White Saphire.

A German team of climbers comprised on Jörg Helfrich, Manuel Hofmann, Till Kramann and Alexander Stahl have put up Hungarob Combination (370m, 7c, 6c oblig) on the Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia. Trip report by Manuel Hofmann.