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Twll Mawr: new route and The Quarryman
08/07/2011 - Climbing
Twll Mawr: new route and The Quarryman
Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuiness add Supermassive Black Hole (F7a, 75m) to Twll Mawr in the Llanberis slate quarries in Wales. Video of James MacHaffie on The Quarryman
Il mio criceto, new route on Tofana di Rozes
07/07/2011 - Climbing
Il mio criceto, new route on Tofana di Rozes
The Slovenians Dejan Koren and Sranka Vidmar have stablished Il mio criceto (400m, 7b max, 7a obl.) up the Primo Spigolo on Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites.
Matteo Della Bordella establishes a new route in Val Bavona, Switzerland
04/07/2011 - Climbing
Matteo Della Bordella establishes a new route in Val Bavona, Switzerland
Matteo Della Bordella has freed the route 'll mito della Caverna' (8a max, 7c oblig, 300m) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. This route was opened with Luca Auguadri after starting off with Nicola Balestra.
Nina Caprez makes first female ascent of Silbergeier, Rätikon
04/07/2011 - Climbing
Nina Caprez makes first female ascent of Silbergeier, Rätikon
Interview with Nina Caprez after the Swiss climber carried out the first female ascent of Silbergeier, shortly after her partner Cedric Lachat repeated the 240m 8b/8b+ in the Rätikon, Switzerland.
Dave Macleod frees The Long Hope Route on Hoy
22/06/2011 - Climbing
Dave Macleod frees The Long Hope Route on Hoy
Scottish climber Dave Macleod has freed the The Long Hope Route at St John's Head, Hoy, Orkneys, Scotland
Leo Houlding and The Prophet on El Capitan, Yosemite
07/06/2011 - Climbing
Leo Houlding and The Prophet on El Capitan, Yosemite
Leo Houlding provides the details of The Prophet, his October 2010 new route on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent by Hansjörg Auer
27/05/2011 - Climbing
Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent by Hansjörg Auer
Interview with Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer after the 22 April first free ascent of Hallucinogen Wall 5.13+/R in the Black Canyon, Colorado, USA.
Delicatessen, first repeat in Corsica's Bavella after 10 years by Nina Caprez, Cédric Lachat
24/05/2011 - Climbing
Delicatessen, first repeat in Corsica's Bavella after 10 years by Nina Caprez, Cédric Lachat
Cédric Lachat and Nina Caprez have carried out the first and second repeat of Delicatessen at Punta d’u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica. The 120m high 8b was established by Arnaud Petit and Stéphane Husson in 1992 and freed by Arnaud in 2001.
Lee Cossey sneaks new Taipan Wall testpiece
13/05/2011 - Climbing
Lee Cossey sneaks new Taipan Wall testpiece
Australian climber Lee Cossey has established Sneaky Snake 33 on Taipan Wall in the Grampians, Australia.
Polish Princess, new route on Dragon’s Horns in Malaysia by Kaszlikowski and Kubarska
12/05/2011 - Climbing
Polish Princess, new route on Dragon’s Horns in Malaysia by Kaszlikowski and Kubarska
In April 2011 Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski from Poland established Polish Princess (7b+max, 270m) on Dragon Horns (Bukit Nanek Simukut) on Tioman Island, Malaysia.
Pompa Funebre, new route by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori on Monte Pellegrino, Palermo
11/05/2011 - Climbing
Pompa Funebre, new route by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori on Monte Pellegrino, Palermo
On 31/03 and 01/04/2011 Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori completed the first ascent of Pompa Funebre (150m, 8b max, 7a+ obligatory). The route had previously been started by Larcher, Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia up the NE Face of Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).
Walou Bass in Taghia, new Morocco climb by Petit, Clouet and Oddo
03/05/2011 - Climbing
Walou Bass in Taghia, new Morocco climb by Petit, Clouet and Oddo
In April 2011 a small French team comprised of Arnaud Petit, Aymeric Clouet and young Enzo Oddo travelled to the Taghia Gorge in Morocco where they created Walou Bass, a 150m climb with difficulties up to 8c.
New climbs at Indian Creek
17/04/2011 - Climbing
New climbs at Indian Creek
New rock climbs at Indian Creek, Utah, USA, by Neil Kauffman and Trevor Bowman
Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
16/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
Two prizes awarded last night in Chamonix during the IXX Piolet d'Or: Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama, and the Big Walls in Greenland by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse and Ben Ditto.
Kevin Jorgeson & Transporter Room, repeat two decades on
11/04/2011 - Environment
Kevin Jorgeson & Transporter Room, repeat two decades on
American climber Kevin Jorgeson has carried out the probable second ascent of Transporter Room, the highball boulder problem on the Grandpa Peabody at the Buttermilks, USA, established by Dale Bard in the late '80's.
Dolasilla, new Fanes mixed route in the Dolomites
06/04/2011 - Alpinism
Dolasilla, new Fanes mixed route in the Dolomites
Florian Riegler has established Dolasilla (M13-), a new mixed route in Val Travenanzes (Fanes massif, Dolomites). The first free ascent was carried out by Pavol Rajcan from Slovak Republic.

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