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Enrico Baistrocchi repeats Oniyx at Chironico
02/02/2010 - Climbing
Enrico Baistrocchi repeats Oniyx at Chironico
The strong Italian climber Enrico Baistrocchi has managed the first repeat of the boudlery Oniyx 8c, first ascended by Markus Bock at Chironico, Switzerland. Massimo Malpezzi has the story.
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
02/02/2010 - Alpinism
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
Will Gadd from Canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
28/01/2010 - Alpinism
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
Last December the South Tyroleans Florian Riegler, Hannes Lehmyer and Tamara Lunger carried out the first ascent of Gratta e vinci (120m, M10, WI 5) at the Passo delle Pedale/Mendola. On 21/12/09 Florian and his brother Martin made the first...
Roby project 8c/9a?
05/01/2010 - Climbing
Roby project 8c/9a?
It all took place at Terlago in Valle del Sarca, a stone's throw from Arco, Italy. But the story Manolo tells about this project which no longer exists could perhaps have taken place at any old crag...
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
24/12/2009 - Climbing
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told...
Leichtfried and Purner do the Moonwalk, the longest icefall in Austria
08/12/2009 - Alpinism
Leichtfried and Purner do the Moonwalk, the longest icefall in Austria
Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have carried out the first ascent Moonwalk WI6/M7, at 1000m the longest icefall in Austria.
Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
04/12/2009 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
Hansjörg Auer has carried out the first free ascent of Vogelfrei (8b/8b+ 400m), on the South Face of the Schüsselkarspitze, Austria.
Stevie Haston repeats Greenspit in Valle del Orco
03/12/2009 - Climbing
Stevie Haston repeats Greenspit in Valle del Orco
British climber Stevie Haston has made a flash ascent of Greenspit in Valle del Orco, Italy
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
01/12/2009 - Climbing
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.
Sonnie Trotter, first trad ascent of Prosthetics at Mill Creek, Utah
28/11/2009 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter, first trad ascent of Prosthetics at Mill Creek, Utah
Sonnie Trotter from Canada has made the first retro-trad ascent of Prosthetics 5.13d (r/x) at Mill Creek, Utah, USA.
Alan Watts climbing interview
26/11/2009 - Climbing
Alan Watts climbing interview
Interview with Alan Watts, the climber who played a leading role during the 1980's in developing Smith Rock into one of the most famous crags in the USA and the world.
Verdon Gorge rock climbing in France
06/11/2009 - Climbing
Verdon Gorge rock climbing in France
A selection of rock climbs in the fantastic Verdon Gorge, France, an area which witnessed the entire evolution of sport climbing.
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
03/11/2009 - Climbing
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
Interview with Riccardo Scarian who on 27/10/2009 climbed the second half of Masada on Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites), and freed the crux pitch at 8b.
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
08/10/2009 - Climbing
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
On 26/27/08/2009 Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira carried out the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (550m 8b) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Martin and Florian Riegler, Flying Penguin and the Rocky Mountains
06/10/2009 - Alpinism
Martin and Florian Riegler, Flying Penguin and the Rocky Mountains
Interview with Martin and Florian Riegler after their climbing trips to the Bugaboos, Canada, where they carried out the first ascent of "The flying penguin" (300m, 5.12b)on the South Face of Pigeon Feathers.
Charakusa Valley, new big wall in Karakorum
28/09/2009 - Alpinism
Charakusa Valley, new big wall in Karakorum
In August 2009 a four man team from Australia and New Zealand established Naughty Daddies (630m 7b), a new route on Nafees Cap, the massive granite spire detached from K7 in the Charakusa Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.

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