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Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
19/10/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
Interview with Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse after his three month climbing and sailing trip to Greenland.
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007...
Transocean, new route on Wenden by Rathmayr and Ruhstaller
08/10/2010 - Climbing
Transocean, new route on Wenden by Rathmayr and Ruhstaller
Bernd Rathmayr and Reto Ruhstaller have established Transocean (7b+, 7a+ obl., 230m) on the Wendenstöcke in Switzerland.
Zahir 8b+ on the Wendenstöcke repeated by Iker and Eneko Pou
07/10/2010 - Climbing
Zahir 8b+ on the Wendenstöcke repeated by Iker and Eneko Pou
Iker and Eneko Pou from Spain have repeated Zahir 8b+ on the Wendenstöcke, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland
Simone Pedeferri and the first free ascent of Non sei più della mia banda
05/10/2010 - Climbing
Simone Pedeferri and the first free ascent of Non sei più della mia banda
Between the 2nd and 3rd of September 2010 the Italian climber Simone Pedeferri carried out the first free ascent of "Non sei più della mia banda" (700m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obbl.), the route first ascended by Stefano "Pizza" Pizzagalli, Domenico Soldarini, Stefano Gaffuri and Cesare Romano on the emblematic Precipizio...
Eventyr, new route in Greenland for Gietl, Kopp, Schäli and Ulrich
29/08/2010 - Alpinism
Eventyr, new route in Greenland for Gietl, Kopp, Schäli and Ulrich
At the start of August an international team of alpinists comprised of Roger Schäli, Thomas Ulrich, Simon Gietl and Daniel Kopp carried out the first ascent of Eventyr (7a+, 1300m) on the Grundtvigskirken in Greenland.
40 anni rifugio Falier, first free ascent by Mittersteiner and Renzler in Marmolada
13/08/2010 - Climbing
40 anni rifugio Falier, first free ascent by Mittersteiner and Renzler in Marmolada
Roland Mittersteiner and Oliver Renzler have carried out the first free ascent of "40 anni rifugio Falier", established by Igor Koller and Dino Kuran in 1993 with the use of aid and now graded 7c+.
Chimera Verticale, Civetta
13/08/2010 - Alpinism
Chimera Verticale, Civetta
Chimera Verticale (IX, 600m + pedestal at base), established over a series of summers up the NW Face of Civetta, recounted by first ascentionist Alessandro Baù.
Pan Aroma on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Iker Pou
12/08/2010 - Climbing
Pan Aroma on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Iker Pou
On 14/08/2010 Iker Pou repeated "Pan Aroma" 8c on the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Pressknödl, new route on the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Christoph Hainz and Kurt Astner
10/08/2010 - Alpinism
Pressknödl, new route on the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Christoph Hainz and Kurt Astner
In July the South Tyroleans Kurt Astner and Christoph Hainz freed their Pressknödl (400m, 7c) on the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
The Devil’s Brew, new Greenland route for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
30/07/2010 - Alpinism
The Devil’s Brew, new Greenland route for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
From 12 to 22 July Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto of the Greenland 2010 expedition established The Devil’s Brew (850m) on Seagull wall, Greenland.
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
20/07/2010 - Alpinism
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia
David Lama, Bellavista and Voie Petit
13/07/2010 - Climbing
David Lama, Bellavista and Voie Petit
Double takings for David Lama, who in just a couple of weeks repeated two important routes in the Alps, Bellavista 8c on the Cima Ovest of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Voie Petit 8b on Gran Capucin.
Hansjörg Auer repeats Pan Aroma
02/07/2010 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer repeats Pan Aroma
On 30/06/2010 the Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer carried out the first repeat of Pan Aroma 8c, Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Rock climbing on Piz Ciavazes and the Sella, Dolomites
30/06/2010 - Climbing
Rock climbing on Piz Ciavazes and the Sella, Dolomites
Five interesting rock climbs on Piz Ciavaces and the First Sella Tower, Dolomites, introduced by Mountain Guide Alberto De Giuli.
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.

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