1110 News found

Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.

This summer a successful Swiss expedition comprised of Jacksch, Ledergerber, Schüpbach and Reist established four long new routes in Renland, Greenland.

Two new rock climbs up the fascinating Cima Cason de Formin in the Dolomites: Buon compleanno Nat (6c+, 215m Massimo Da Pozzo, Marco Alberti, Danilo Serafini) and La beffa (7a+/7b Massimo Da Pozzo, Pier Francesco Smaltini).

Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of La Röschtigraben (700m, 8a+, 7b obligatory) in Wendenstöcke, Switzerland.

On 22/09/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent of Il colpo di coda (7a+, 160m) up the South Face of Presolana, Italy. The report by Natali who made the first free ascent of the line together with Carlo Cortinovis on 06/10/2012.

Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.

On 16 September Giangi Angeloni and Daniele Calegari made the first free ascent of A piede libero (7c+, 7a obl., 280m), the new route they established between 2009 and 2012 up Corna delle Quattro Matte (Presolana massif), Italy.

Last summer Maurizio Giordani, Luciano Ferrari and Nancy Paoletto made the first ascent of Via dei 6 Pilastri (940m, 6b+) up the South Face of Piz dell'Anticima Serauta (Marmolada, Dolomites)

The video of American climber Pamela Shanti Pack on The Forever War 5.13c/d at Vedauwoo, USA.

This summer Tomas Brt (Czech Republic), Vlado Linek and Jan Smolen (Slovakia) visited Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord where they established two new routes, Turbo (VIII+, A2,1450m) on the South Face of Ketil and Keep Panic, Please (VIII, 1270m)  up the NW Face of  the N summit of Ulamertorsuaq.

The video of Jonathan Siegrist on his Algorithm 9a at the Fins, Idaho, USA.

Egregious wilderness climbing violations found at Joshua Tree National Park, USA.

In August 2012 Christian Gaab, Uli Strunz, Benno Wagner, Toni Lamprecht and Paolo Maldi Dalmasso made the first ascent of Come animali nella bolla dei temporali (7c, 6c obl., 450m) up the NE Face of Corno Stella, Maritime Alps.

This summer Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindic made the first ascent of Forest Gump (VIII+, 650m), a new rock climb up the North Face of Rocchetta Alta, Bosconero, Dolomites.

Errata: contrary to what we published previously, Via Leila on Cima Cason de Formin (Croda da Lago, Dolomites) is not a new route but a lower variation (5 pitches) to Via Leber Kenedi first ascended in 1990 by Federico Michielli and Michele Da Pozzo.

On 11/08/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Alien (7a+, 150m), a new climb up the South Face of Presolana Centrale.