Il colpo di coda, new Presolana rock climb by Codazzi and Natali

After our experience on Alien, one "rare" and warm September day Stefano and I headed up the path once again which leads from the Presolana Pass to the base of the face. This time we walked to the basin to the left of the arete which hosts historic routes such as Bramani, Nembrini and Panico. Our idea was to establish a new route to the left of these.

Our tactic was simple: establish ground-up, with camming devices, making best use of the numerous threads and placing bolts only when absolutely necessary. In less then 7 hours we established a 160m high route up excellent pocketed limestone; the climbing is demanding and although technically not too difficult, requires "solid 6c" obligatory climbing

Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support.
by Daniele Natali


TOPO: Il colpo di coda, Presolana