Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowRock arrowRoutes arrowAlien

Alien

First ascent: Stefano Codazzi, Daniele Natali 11/08/2012. First free ascent: Stefano Codazzi, Daniele Natali 30/08/2012
By: Stefano Codazzi
Area: Rhaetian Alps, Group: Presolana, Peak: Presolana Centrale, Height: 2250m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Demanding new rock climb up the South Face of Presolana first ascended ground-up on 9 August 2012 by Daniele Natali and Stefano Codazzi. The route follows an amazing series of vertical pocketed slabs up fantastic limestone for 150m with difficulties up to 7a+ (6c obligatory). Bolts are few and far between and the insitu gear needs integrating with Alien camming devices which slot neatly in to the numerous pockets. Twin-bolt belays, abseil down the route.

ACCESS

Reach the Presolana pass (1297m) at Castione della Presolana. From here continue along path #315 towards malga Cassinelli, at this hut continue up the steep path which leads to the obvious base of the South Face (2100m). From here traverse circa 150m right to the start of the route (route name at the base). 1:45 from the car park.

ROUTE

P1: 5c, 45m
P2: 7a+, 40m
P3: 6b+, 25m
P4: 7a+, 40m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route or down the nearby Yook Yook.

GEAR

14 x 10mm bolts, all belays twin-bolts. For a repeat: 2 x 60m ropes, 10 quickdraws, kevlar threads, set of Alien + #2 & 3 BD (or set of  BD to 3+ set of nuts)

NOTES

Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Alien"

No comments found for Alien

Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

(6c obl) S3 I

FACE

South

LENGTH

150m

PDF

Alien

LINK ZONE

Read main article

LINK

www.climbingtechnology.com

VOTES / itinerary
USERS VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH routes

GROUP

Peak

Route

More itineraries
EXPO / Products
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Tovaric
    Via stupenda, gradi stretti e numerosi passaggi obbligatori, ...
    2013-12-16 / MICHELE LUCCHINI
  • Don Quixote
    Che dire di questa stupenda via......quando l'ho ripetuta er ...
    2013-12-01 / moreno rossini
  • Re Artù
    semplicemente fantastica,da divertirsi andate a farla. solo ...
    2013-11-24 / moreno rossini
  • La Salvana
    bella via di media difficoltá con in realtá pochi spit ma ...
    2013-09-28 / Armin Craffonara