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Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
31/12/2018 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
22/12/2018 - Alpinism
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
The video of the ascent of the stunning ridge up Choktoi Ri 6166m in Pakistan’s Karakorum, first climbed in summer 2018 by Fabian Buhl and Alexander Huber. The 2200m route is called The Big Easy.
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
18/12/2018 - Alpinism
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco alla leggenda, Repentance super, La volpe e l’uva, Monday Money,...
Parody of Free Solo, the film about Alex Honnold climbing Freerider without a rope
15/12/2018 - Climbing
Parody of Free Solo, the film about Alex Honnold climbing Freerider without a rope
The parody of the trailer to Free Solo that documents Alex Honnold and his climb without a rope of Freerider up El Capitan in Yosemite on 3 June 2017
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express, in 2017 with Alex Honnold.
Simon Gietl makes free solo of Lacedelli Cima Scotoni, Dolomites
28/11/2018 - Interviews
Simon Gietl makes free solo of Lacedelli Cima Scotoni, Dolomites
Interview with Simon Gietl after his ascent free solo ascent of Via Lacedelli up Cima Scotoni in the Dolomites on 18 October 2018.
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
26/11/2018 - Alpinism
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
Chris Wright (USA/UK) and Graham Zimmerman (USA/NZ) have made the first ascent of a long, difficult mixed route on the North Face of Mount MacDonald in the Selkirk Mountains in British Columbia, Canada. 1000 meters long, the Indirect American was climbed from 11 - 13 November 2018 and deals with...
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
22/11/2018 - Alpinism
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).
Connor Herson, 15, free climbs The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite
21/11/2018 - Climbing
Connor Herson, 15, free climbs The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite
Connor Herson has made a free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite. Climbing with his father Jim Herson over a three-day period, Connor is one of the few climbers to achieve this feat. Aged only 15, he is also the youngest person to free climb The Nose.
Keita Kurakami climbs The Nose on El Capitan free and rope solo
20/11/2018 - Climbing
Keita Kurakami climbs The Nose on El Capitan free and rope solo
Climbing solo and self-belayed for five days, Japan’s Keita Kurakami has repeated The Nose on El Capitan (Yosemite, USA). This is the first time that the route freed in 1993 by Lynn Hill has been climbed rope solo all free.
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
19/11/2018 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
At the crag Bilico (Primiero, Dolomites) Alessandro Zeni has made the first ascent of Energia Cosmica, Cosmic Energy, a sports climb the 27-year-old has now tentatively graded 9a+.
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...
Stefan Scarperi does Action Directe in Frankenjura
13/11/2018 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi does Action Directe in Frankenjura
On 2 November 2018 Stefan Scarperi repeated Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura. He is the third Italian to repeat the legendary route established by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 after Gabriele Moroni and Stefano Carnati.
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
09/11/2018 - Climbing
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first repeat of Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite, first ascended in 2008 by Beth Rodden.

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