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Histoire sans Fin free at last on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Seb Berthe, Siebe Vanhee
17/08/2021 - Alpinism
Histoire sans Fin free at last on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Seb Berthe, Siebe Vanhee
Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and Sébastien Berthe have made the first free ascent of Histoire sans Fin on Petit Clocher du Portalet in Switzerland, an 8b+ multi-pitch they describe ravingly as 'the best granite multipitch of the grade in Europe.' Vanhee reports.
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
Peru's Huanka Punta provides another climb to Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
13/08/2021 - Alpinism
Peru's Huanka Punta provides another climb to Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
Spanish alpinists Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Leire (300m, 6b) a new multi-pitch route on the SE Face of Huanka Punta in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
David Leduc climbs solo in the Valley of Dreams on Agner and Spiz di Lagunaz
12/08/2021 - Alpinism
David Leduc climbs solo in the Valley of Dreams on Agner and Spiz di Lagunaz
29-year-old Belgian mountaineer David Leduc has made fast solo ascents of the Spigolo Nord of Agner and the Diedro Casarotto-Radin on Spiz di Lagunaz (Dolomites). An intimate journey on both sides of the Valley of Dreams.
New rock climb added to Presolana by Angelo Contessi, Leo Gheza
11/08/2021 - Alpinism
New rock climb added to Presolana by Angelo Contessi, Leo Gheza
On the north face of Presolana Angelo Contessi and Leonardo Gheza have made the first ascent of Presolana Holiday. The new multi-pitch rock climb tackles an independent line between via Bosio and Le Medaglie di Matley. Gheza reports.
Super Canalizos, a perfect sculpture completed on Huanka Punta in Peru by Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
09/08/2021 - Alpinism
Super Canalizos, a perfect sculpture completed on Huanka Punta in Peru by Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
On the SE Face of Huanka Punta in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, Spanish alpinists Eneko Pou, Iker Pou e Manu Ponce have established Super Canalizos (6c+, 475m) describing the multi-pitch climb as a ‘perfect sculpture.’
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
05/08/2021 - Alpinism
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
Austrian mountain guide Christoph Schranz has established, and subsequently freed, Ocha-Schau-Schuich, a 300m multi-pitch alpine climb graded 8c on Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria
Marc-André Leclerc is The Alpinist
29/07/2021 - Alpinism
Marc-André Leclerc is The Alpinist
The trailer for The Alpinist, the documentary that traces the life of Canadian mountaineer Marc-André Leclerc.
Petzl Legend Tour Italia: climbing at Ferentillo
28/07/2021 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italia: climbing at Ferentillo
The third episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's. After Finale Ligure and Sperlonga, the third stop are the crags at Ferentillo in the heart of Umbria.
Rick Allen perishes on K2
27/07/2021 - Alpinism
Rick Allen perishes on K2
68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...
Nicola Castagna, Gabriel Perenzoni complete the 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps in 80 days
23/07/2021 - Alpinism
Nicola Castagna, Gabriel Perenzoni complete the 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps in 80 days
Italian alpinists Nicola Castagna and Gabriel Perenzoni have managed to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000 meters in the Alps. The trainee mountain guides set off on 4 May and required 80 days to complete the climbs.
Dolorock, a wonderful climbing experience in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites
21/07/2021 - Events
Dolorock, a wonderful climbing experience in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites
There are 10 days left until the end of Dolorock, the climbing festival in the Höhlensteintal / Valle di Landro in the Dolomites.
Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres
21/07/2021 - Alpinism
Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres
Alpinists Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin and Alex Torres have made the first ascent of Cerveza, Pan y Ácido, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Concha de Caracol in the Cordillera Vilcanota massif in Peru.
Lorenzo Scandroglio
16/07/2021 - Alpinism
Lorenzo Scandroglio
The Italian mountaineering community is in mourning: Lorenzo Scandroglio, a well-known mountain journalist, writer and translator, mountain hut warden, mountaineer and member of the Italian mountain rescue team, passed away at the age of 52.
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
15/07/2021 - Alpinism
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
Enenko and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of ¡Viva Perú Carajo !, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Nevado Huamashraju East in Peru. At the same time their expedition partners Manu Ponce and Micher Quito also established a new route up the mountain’s north face.