Mad Vlad climbed on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey by Jon Bracey, Matt Helliker

British mountaineers Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker have climbed Mad Vlad (350m M7 R, IX/8). This is likely to be a new route on the ENE Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif.
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Jon Bracey making the first ascent of Mad Vlad on the ENE Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey together with Matt Helliker on 28/02/2022
Matt Helliker

On the 28th of February 2022 British mountaineers Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker climbed what is likely to be a hard new mixed climb route on the ENE Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif.

According to the two mountain guides, Mad Vlad "climbs an obvious curving gully to a steep overhanging wall into another gully above, giving sustained but brilliant mixed climbing with at times sketchy gear and suspect rock."

The line finishes at the V notch, where the gully hits the ridge, and was climbed with trad only. The two did not come across any signs of previous attempts and the only pro left in-situ is the gear they needed for the abseils.

The route checks in at 350m M7 R, IX/8 and for those interested in repeating in, Helliker suggests "Bring your best head game for this one!"




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