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News in archive
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
Will Gadd ice climbing fest in Canada
25/02/2009 - Alpinism
Will Gadd ice climbing fest in Canada
Two massive first ascents in Canada: The Jimmy Skid Rig (WI5 M12, 300m, Will Gadd, Will Meinen and Brandon Pullan) and Hunlen Falls (5.9 A2, 370m, Will Gadd & EJ Plimley).
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
24/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef while 13 year old Geoffray De Flaugergues from France has repeated El templo del cafe 8c+/9a at Alquezar.
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland
23/02/2009 - Alpinism
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland
Over the last 10 days 6 teams have repeated "Buon compleanno", the beatuiful drip in Gole di Gondo (Ossola, Switzerland) which last came into conditions 8 years ago.
First repeat of  'Per Leila', Julian Alps
20/02/2009 - Alpinism
First repeat of 'Per Leila', Julian Alps
On 16 February Massimo Laurencig and Gianni Dorigo carried out the first repeat of "Per Leila" (120m, III/6+), the elegant and daring icefall first ascended by Luca Vuerich in January at Cima Cenge (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps).
Val Senales: ski mountaineering in Italy
Val Senales: ski mountaineering in Italy
A selection of ski mountaineering itineraries in the Val Senales, South Tyrol, Italy.
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley
17/02/2009 - Climbing
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley
James Pearson has made a fast first repeat of the gritstone testpiece Gerty Berwick at Ilkley Quarry, England.
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland
16/02/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland
On 25/01/09 Francesco Vaudo, Mauro Piccione and Massimo Coccalatto carried out the first ascent of Alta tensione (60m, II/5+) a new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo (Switzerland). On 01/02 Francesco Vaudo and Silvia Preti made the first ascent of nearby La stangata (60m, III/5+).
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
13/02/2009 - Alpinism
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
In January Kurt Astner and Emanuele Ciulli made the first ascent of Leben ist jetzt (200m, IV/M7+/ice 80/90°), a modern 5 pitch mixed route in Val di Tures (Riva di Tures, Dolomites).
Paine South African Route, interview with Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
12/02/2009 - Alpinism
Paine South African Route, interview with Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
Interview with Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto after their first free ascent of the South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
11/02/2009 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.
Free South Africa, first free route up the Central Tower of Paine for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
10/02/2009 - Climbing
Free South Africa, first free route up the Central Tower of Paine for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
After 11 days on the wall Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva amd Ben Ditto have carried out the first free ascent of the South African route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
ISPO Munich 2009. What crisis?
10/02/2009 - Events
ISPO Munich 2009. What crisis?
Last Wednesday the ISPO Winter 2009, the largest outdoor trade show in the world, drew to a successful end for both exhibitors and visitors. In the following article we attempt to analyse the current state of new products and the "anti-crisis" trend.
Ice World Cup 2009 won by Bendler and Tolokonina
09/02/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009 won by Bendler and Tolokonina
Last weekend Markus Bendler from Austria and Maria Tolokonina from Russia won the third and final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2009 Lead and in doing so they also won the overall Trophy 2009. Maria Tolokonina won the Speed event, together with teammate Pavel Gulyaev.
Simone Moro and Denis Urubko: Makalu first winter ascent
09/02/2009 - Alpinism
Simone Moro and Denis Urubko: Makalu first winter ascent
The news is just in: at 14.00 (local time) Simone Moro and Denis Urubko reached the 8462m high summit of Makalu, carrying out the historic first winter ascent of the 5th highest mountain in the world.
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
06/02/2009 - Alpinism
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
Hervé Barmasse, Giovanni Ongaro and Daniele Bernasconi have completed the traverse of the Hielo Continetal Sud and safely reached the Falcon Ford. Their idea of climbing the North Pillar of Cerro Riso Patron faltered as the mountain proved inaccessible, so much so that reaching the Fjord proved an undertaking in...