234 News found
06/11/2020 - Alpinism
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine style ascent that required 8 nights and nine days on...
17/09/2020 - Alpinism
matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible The Italian matterhorn Guides inform that due to rockfall the Échelle Jordan ladder is currently inaccessible. The guides have equipped a new line to the left of the ladder in order to reach the summit.
27/08/2020 - Alpinism
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse reports about Dall'inferno al Paradiso, from hell to heaven, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Torre del Gran San Pietro above the Piantonetto Valley (Orco Valley, Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy) first ascended with Stefano Perrone.
14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.
01/08/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of...
23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.
16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was...
14/07/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg On 8 July 2020 the two Swiss mountaineers Adrian Zurbrügg and Nicolas Hojac completed the spectacular traverse of the 18 mountains in the Monte Rosa massif above 4000 meters in just 13 hours and 39 minutes.
22/06/2020 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti would have turned 90 today In order to remember the great mountaineer and extremely special man who passed away in 2011, we’ve published the thoughts and memories of his inseparable life partner Rossana Podestà.
11/06/2020 - Alpinism
Not so far #3, Hervé Barmasse climbing the matterhorn The third and final episode of the film Not so far featuring Hervé Barmasse and his new route, climbed solo in 2011, up Picco Muzio on the matterhorn.
10/05/2020 - Alpinism
Not so far #1, Hervé Barmasse, Eneko & Iker Pou climbing the Brouillard Pillar on Mont Blanc The first of three episodes of the film Not so far featuring Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse and his 2011 first ascent with Spaniards Iker Pou and Eneko Pou of La Classica Moderna up the Left Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.
24/04/2020 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard, the film about the great British climber Tom, the film by Angel Esteban and Elena Goatelli, is now online. This documents the attempt of British mountaineer Tom Ballard to become the first to solo in the same winter season the six great North Faces of the Alps: Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Petit...
21/04/2020 - Alpinism
matterhorn guides raise over €14,000 with charity sale of historic Échelle Jordan ladder The Italian matterhorn Guides have raised € 14,631 with the sale of the historic Échelle Jordan, the original rope ladder used by thousands of mountaineers on their way to the summit of the matterhorn. The money will go to charities fighting the coronavirus.
27/03/2020 - Alpinism
Linea Continua, the film by Hervé and Marco Barmasse on YouTube Hervé Barmasse has published 'Linea Continua’ on YouTube, the film about the new route he established on the South Face of the matterhorn with his father Marco. First ascended in 2010, it is still unrepeated.
24/01/2020 - Alpinism
matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti After 4 days and 40 hours of climbing, the two Italian mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti completed the first winter enchainment of the Furggen chain, matterhorn, Grandes Murailles chain and Petites Murailles chain. A 'Himalayan ridge above home.'
04/10/2019 - Interviews
Dani Arnold, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Comici - Dimai free solo speed interview Interview with Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold after the ropeless ascent of via Comici - Dimai up Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Dolomites) in 46 minutes and 30 seconds.
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