218 News found

The climbing video of Adam Ondra making the first free ascent of Atene Naturale 9a at Massone in Arco, Italy.

Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has made the first free ascent of Ellipsis, a five-pitch climb with difficulties up to 8b+ on Mt. Bila Pec at Sella Nevea in the Julian Alps, Italy.

The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.

The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22...

Francesco Salvaterra introduces the rock climb Nido di rondine, a 'forgotten gem' on Scoglio di Boazzo in Val Daone established in 1985 by Gianni Berta, G.P. Foti and Ermanno Salvaterra.

On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)

At the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Beginning 9a/+.

The fascinating portrait of Petr Slanina, the Czech rock climber better known as Špek, and the complicated game of traditional climbing on the sandstone towers of the Czech Republic.

Sandro Neri introduces Podenzoi, the historic crag above Longarone (Belluno, Veneto, Italy) discovered in the 1980’s by Gigi Dal Pozzo.

During a committing rock climbing expedition in February 2020 to Valle de la Plata in Chile’s Northern Patagonia, Max Didier, Austin Siadak, Ian Siadak and Siebe Vanhee established Bailando con la Lluvia, a 700m big wall up the west face of the hitherto virgin peak Pared de La Plata. After...

In Valle Cochamo in Chile Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Teofil Vlad have made the first ascent of El ultimo Vuelo del Condor. The new multi-pitch rock climb is dedicated to Zsolt Torok who perished in August 2019.

On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain range in the Chablais Alps in Switzerland. Chatelan report.

Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports

From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.

German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the German part of the Elbsandsteingebirge. What makes this climb remarkable...

58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...