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Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
06/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
In Valle Cochamo in Chile Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Teofil Vlad have made the first ascent of El ultimo Vuelo del Condor. The new multi-pitch rock climb is dedicated to Zsolt Torok who perished in August 2019.
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
04/02/2020 - Alpinism
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain...
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
10/01/2020 - Alpinism
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
15/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing...
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the...
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the...
Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Jacek Matuszek & Łukasz Dudek make their Premiere
28/06/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Jacek Matuszek & Łukasz Dudek make their Premiere
Polish climbers Jacek Matuszek & Łukasz Dudek have made the first ascent of Premiere, a big new rock climb up the North Face of Cima Grande in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites, Italy.
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
14/02/2019 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San...
Pelmoon, new mixed climb up Pelmo North Face in Dolomites
01/02/2019 - Alpinism
Pelmoon, new mixed climb up Pelmo North Face in Dolomites
Enrico Geremia reports about the first ascent of Pelmoon up the North Face of Mt. Pelmo in the Dolomites, established over two days with his brother Daniele Geremia and Fabrizio della Rossa.
New Zion aid route climbed by Paul Gagner, Ryan Kempf
03/01/2019 - Climbing
New Zion aid route climbed by Paul Gagner, Ryan Kempf
Climbing in Zion National Park, USA: in November 2018 Paul Gagner and Ryan Kempf made the first ascent of Museum Piece (V 5.8 A4), a new aid climb up the Angelino Wall.
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
12/10/2018 - Events
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
10/10/2018 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Ján Smoleň have established two new rock climbs on Aiguille d’Argentière in the Mont Blanc massif: Crystal route up Contreforts Charlet-Straton and In memory of Červienka up Plateau du Jardin.
Adam Ondra in Bosnia frees High Line, one of best first ascents ever
29/09/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra in Bosnia frees High Line, one of best first ascents ever
Czech climber Adam Ondra has freed the High Line at Banja Luka in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Graded 9a+, the 25-year-old has described this as called it 'one of my best first ascents ever'.
New multi-pitch rock climb up Punta Cusidore in Sardinia
07/06/2018 - Climbing
New multi-pitch rock climb up Punta Cusidore in Sardinia
Between autumn 2017 and spring 2018 Giovanni Manconi and Maurizio Oviglia established Passavamo sulla terra leggeri, a new rock climb on Punta Cusidore, a mountain considered by many as one of the most important 'alpine' peaks in Sardinia.
Jim Bridwell, at the forefront of climbing and alpinism since the 60's
22/02/2018 - Alpinism
Jim Bridwell, at the forefront of climbing and alpinism since the 60's
The 2002 interview / portrait of American climber and mountaineer Jim Bridwell, one of the undisputed driving forces of rock climbing in Yosemite and on the world’s most inhospitable mountains, who died on 16 February 2018 at the age of...

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