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Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
05/07/2023 - Alpinism
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about the first ascent of 'Magia nera', established on the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites with Martin Tučka.
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
24/05/2023 - Alpinism
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernat have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The new route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.
Federica Mingolla frees E ti vengo a cercare in Valle Orco, Italy
12/05/2023 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees E ti vengo a cercare in Valle Orco, Italy
On 4 May 2023 in Valle dell'Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla and Matteo Sella made the first free ascent of 'E ti vengo a cercare'. In 1980 Ugo Manera and Isidoro Meneghin established all but the last pitch and the route lay remained unfinished until now.
Christoph Hainz, Simon Kehrer establish Bella Ramponella in Val dai Tamersc, Fanes, Dolomites
03/05/2023 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz, Simon Kehrer establish Bella Ramponella in Val dai Tamersc, Fanes, Dolomites
The report by Simon Kehrer who with Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of the mixed climb Bella Ramponella in Val dal Sé, a side valley to Val dai Tamersc, Fanis, Dolomites.
Grand Pic de Belledonne, Thibault Sibille completes first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat
14/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grand Pic de Belledonne, Thibault Sibille completes first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat
Between 5 and 8 February 2023 the French mountain guide Thibault Sibille carried out the first winter solo of the Rébuffat route (Michel Chevalier, Gaston Rébuffat 26/07/1944) on the NW face of Grand Pic de Belledonne (2977m) in the Dauphiné Alps.
Big new climb up Punta Giradili in Sardinia
10/01/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb up Punta Giradili in Sardinia
After three years of effort, on 30 December 2022 Alviero Garau and Davide Lagomarsino completed the first ascent of 'Crysalis by Grenke' (550m, 7a+ max, 6a+ obligatory) up the SE Face of Punta Giradili close to Baunei in Sardinia.
Bat Cave, the new crag at Buzet in Croatia
05/01/2023 - Climbing
Bat Cave, the new crag at Buzet in Croatia
Austrian climber Angela Eiter introduces Bat Cave, the new crag at Buzet in Croatia she bolted with climbing partner Bernie Ruech
The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents
16/11/2022 - Alpinism
The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2021.The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 18 to 20 November 2022 at Briançon in France.
Michael Wohlleben adds Bodhichitta to Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland
12/10/2022 - Climbing
Michael Wohlleben adds Bodhichitta to Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland
German rock climber Michael Wohlleben has made the first ascent of Bodhichitta, a highly technical 5-pitch route on Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland.
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
22/09/2022 - Alpinism
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
On the south face of Cima Roma (Brenta Dolomites) Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana and Alberto Fedrizzi have made the first ascent of 'Caput Mundi' (360m, VII). Pavana and Beber pro idea the details.
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
20/09/2022 - Alpinism
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
Patrick Tirler from the South Tyrol, Italy, reports about the first ascent of 'Ak-Kalpak' on Little Asan in the Kara-Su Valley in the Karavshin area of Kyrgyzstan's Pamir-Alai, carried out this summer with Moritz Sigmund.
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
01/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after...

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