Grand Pic de Belledonne, Thibault Sibille completes first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat
Between 5 and 8 February 2023 the French mountain guide Thibault Sibille carried out the first winter solo of the Rébuffat route (Michel Chevalier, Gaston Rébuffat 26/07/1944) on the NW face of Grand Pic de Belledonne (2977m) in the Dauphiné Alps.
Over a period of three days and after having endured two freezing bivouacs the French mountain guide Thibault Sibille carried out the first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat on the NW Face of Grand Pic de Belledonne (2977m). The route, established on 26 July 1944 by Gaston Rébuffat and Michel Chevalier, is described by its first ascentionist as "generally very steep, with an angle that gives the impression of an extraordinary void". It should be noted that, at the time, the first ascensionists climbed the route in espadrilles.
"This wall, in winter, doesn't make many people dream" commented Sibille ironically while reflecting on his solo. "However, conditions were right... as was motivation and the desire to experience a beautiful adventure at this precise moment in my life, the summit that has been teasing me for almost 10 years in winter." These are the reasons that prompted the 32-year-old to try to climb the route alone, coupled with "the impossibility of finding a partner".
And so, "having collected the gear at the last minute thanks to other guides" and after a beautiful day ski mountaineering with his sister, during which he stashed the equipment for the ascent at Col de Freydane, Sibille prepared for his ascent.
"I spent three days on this mountain, with two nights in a bivouac. One was really tough because of the wind and the cold" he recalls. "Personally I'd consider this an adventure at my very limit, during which my brain disconnected on an emotional level, while never losing concentration on the tasks in hand." Unfortunately there are no photos of Sibille's undertaking. "I dropped my phone on the third day, shortly below the summit. The memories of being up there alone are forever etched in my mind!"
by Gian Luca Gasca
Share
NEWS / Related news:
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m). The mixed climb follows a treacherous couloir, infamous in summer due to rockfall.
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans establish new variation on Pic de Bure in France
German alpinists Stefan Glowacz and Philipp Hans have managed to establish a new line on Pic de Bure in the Dauphiné Prealps in France. The route is a variation to the classic Pilier Est established in 1961 by André Bertrand, René Desmaison and Yves Pollet-Villard.
Cocktail Sans Glace savoured on Pic Coolidge, Écrins, by Markus Kirch, James Price
German alpinist Markus Kirch reports about the first ascent of Cocktail Sans Glace, a new mixed route established in mid-May with James Price and on the North Face of Pic Coolidge in the Massif des Écrins, France.
Le Prestige des Écrins, new ice gully climbed on Pic Sans Nom
From 19 - 21 October 2015 Benjamin Brochard, Fred Degoulet and Jonathan Joly made the first ascent of Le Prestige des Écrins, a new 1000m mixed climb graded V, M6+, 6a on Pic Sans Nom (3913m) in France’s Ecrins massif.
Follow the Gully, new couloir on Barre des Ecrins
On 23/11/2012 Marcello Sanguineti, Sergio De Leo, Christian Türk made the first ascent of "Follow the Gully" (300m, M6) a new gully up the South Face of Barre des Ecrins (Dauphiné Alps, France).
Freissinieres - ice climbing in the Ecrins, France
A selection of 10 fantastic icefalls in the world famous Ecrins National Park, France by Mountain Guide Mario Sertori.
